Two Headed 827

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by Richard Moss » Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:22 pm

I usually use my teeth - they work very well :)
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Sat Oct 12, 2013 10:03 pm

mrpcpc wrote:I'm an electrician by trade and I don't use cable strippers on any plastic coated cable, so that is a clue for you :wink:
Now it all make sense to me, you ARE the pro! :idea:
I appreciate your professional input - if I cant fined the male connector I will try with knife, or umm teeth may be :)
Richard Moss wrote:I usually use my teeth - they work very well :)
Thanks... I will try it once my root canal operation is finished, I promise :lol:
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Sun Oct 13, 2013 2:29 am

vito wrote:
scoobyh123 wrote:You're welcome - i got the idea from a place where i worked where they would dry plastics compound prior to using it in injection moulding machines. It was also great for warming pies up when the boss wasn't looking! :wink:
He he, Guy who works on my motorbikes uses his kitchen oven to 'bake' his freshly coated black engine parts, I part paid a bill for some work on my LC250 with my old IKEA oven we were chucking last Christmas for his garden workshop, his wife was MOST grateful.............. though not in the biblical sense I hurriedly add :shock:

Funny you should mention that idea - i recently gave away my old oven and hob then discovered powder coating kits are quite cheap but need an oven to cure the powder.......... :roll:

Re using automatic wire strippers, if it's the sort of cable i'm thinking of with the nylon insulation they will just skid on it - better to use a Stanley knife or scalpel or similar as suggested although there' is a tool available designed just for stripping that kind of cable. Basically it's a sharp blade (scalpel blade i think) in a spring-loaded clamp that fits round the cable insulation, you then spin the handle round the cable and it cleanly cuts the insulation so it can be easily removed from the wire. They're expensive though and for the amount of times you're likely to use it, not worth buying, better to use a very sharp (new?) Stanley knife blade with just a little bit of blade out of the handle.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:54 pm

No, just chilled from the engine bay! :wink:

I've never understood why the heat from the engine doesn't dry them out but the oven has worked really well.
Cheers,
Dave

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'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:16 pm

Mine seemed to get worse the more i used it until i decided to try the oven. I'm guessing i got it just warm enough by driving it to turn the moisture insto mist inside the covers and cause a partial short cct. That said, after laying it up for a few weeks in the garage while i bottomed out something on the coupe, the speedo decided to play up. This time (knowing i had a long enough journey to get it properly warm - Lakenheath to Poole and back) i left it and sure enough it worked fine after that.

You're probably right about the power steering fluid absorbing most of the heat from the box - hadn't considered that before to be honest.

The moist days were the killer for mine especially after short ish journeys.

I suppose i've spent too long working on things that wouldn't work with dodgy sensors to ignore mine, perhaps that's why i thought about using the oven.

Out of the two, the beef hotpot will taste better! :lol:
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:08 pm

Finally I have got the transducer and start the conversion.
I though replacing the 3 pin connector on the newer transducer to the old one was simple but, as I guessed, the colour code of the wires are different :mrgreen:

Old one : U(blue) / B(black) / R(red)

Newer one : LGY(light green & yellow) / B(black) / BR(black & red)

The newer one fits to the description of Rover Mk1 Electrical Manual (thanks Paul!) but the older one is different :?
Never mind, I have peered the rubber caps on the transducer and checked how these cables are soldered on the small circuit boards inside them, and got the answer.

Old-->New : U(blue)-->BR(black & red) / B(black)-->B(black) / R(red)-->LGY(light green & yellow)

I am gonna cut the cable and start soldering tonight. Yey! :D
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:26 pm

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the information!
Yes I was looking at the Mk1 electrical.
The problem is this...
Image :?
On the top pic, the red one is just red, not with black.
I believe it should still be ok to swap them.
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:53 pm

mrpcpc wrote:is the plug on the car still BR, B, and GY ? or is it matching your old transducer ? it will be very strange if it is matching your old transducer.
That is very good point!
I will check it out tomorrow before start chopping it up!
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:05 pm

Today I went to garage (1 hour drive from my nest hence the delay!) and here is the intriguing truth.... :?
Image
Obviously the gear box or transducer has been replaced at some point of its life!
Sorry for dirty parts, I need to clean it deep.

So it confirms with this cable connection;
Old-->New : U(blue)-->BR(black & red) / B(black)-->B(black) / R(red)-->GY(green & yellow)

But where did this transducer come from? :lol:
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Tue Mar 04, 2014 5:28 am

epic1400cs wrote:Today I went to garage (1 hour drive from my nest hence the delay!) and here is the intriguing truth.... :?
Image
Obviously the gear box or transducer has been replaced at some point of its life!
Sorry for dirty parts, I need to clean it deep.

So it confirms with this cable connection;
Old-->New : U(blue)-->BR(black & red) / B(black)-->B(black) / R(red)-->GY(green & yellow)

But where did this transducer come from? :lol:
Perhaps it came from a Honda Legend? Or maybe someone got an aftermarket sensor that just happened to come with odd wiring colours. Alternatively, it could be the cable got damaged at some pont and whoever repaired it used whatever came to hand. Be interesting to see the sensor end of the cable as looking at the two cables, they are very different. The OE cables are loose in some sleeving, the "modified" sensor cable is double insulated with a black sheath.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


Image
'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by Richard Moss » Tue Mar 04, 2014 6:54 am

What i would do is just plug it in and see if it works. It's highly unlikely to damage anything even if it is wrong.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:08 pm

Thanks for your responses. :D
Here is the picture of its overview.
Image
The sensor body looks longer than the newer one Mr Paul offered to me.
I can't see any sign of wire repair and the colour of the wires are consistent all the way to the inside of the sensor (had a looked inside by lifting the rubber cap).
So it may mean it came from Honda Legend?
Anyhow, it was working when I drove it last time so its ok.... but just curious! :wink:
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:03 am

The part number on that sensor, YBE10002 is no longer available (NLA) and Rimmers says to use YBE10015, which in turn is also NLA and their site points towards YBE10036 which is in fact still available.

As YBE10002 is a Rover part number i would guess it is from a very early car going on the fact it has been superceded twice.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by epic1400cs » Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:09 pm

Thank you both for the explanation.
I didn't realize that YBE number is the Rover parts number, my bad!
Now I will start the surgery very soon!
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Re: Two Headed 827

Post by scoobyh123 » Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:39 pm

Most Rover/Unipart part numbers are in the form of three letters followed by four numbers eg GFE 1022 which is an air filter for something, can't remember what though! Mini, Marina, Ambassador or something of that ilk i think.

I'm guessing you've heard of Rimmer Brothers, one of the few places where we can still buy genuine new parts for the 800. If you click that link it will take you to Rimmers home page and there's a box there with the words inside "What can we help you find today?" - if you type the part number (or what you believe the part number to be) into that box it will come up with what the part is, what it fits, if it has been superceded it will say use "XYZ1234" instead and you can then type that number in instead and find out what the new part number is for the item you have. Saves a lot of head scratching! :lol:
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


Image
'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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