Drivers door switch panel

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pat5338
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Drivers door switch panel

Post by pat5338 » Mon Mar 09, 2020 2:52 am

I know I am looking for the "holy grail" but my Rover 1997 825 (KV6) Si switch panel has stopped opening the drivers window. All the other switches work perfectly, including the closing part of the driver's window. I switched the wires around (temporarily) and was able to open the drivers window by using the rear right hand passenger window switch on the same panel so there is nothing wrong with the motor, or the fuse box printed circuit (changed last year, after much help from this forum and fellow enthusiasts in the UK).
These switch panels are now impossible to find out here in New Zealand, even scrap cars (and there are very few of them ,either) have duff switch panels..
Any pointers would be a great help, either to fix mine or purchase a replacement.
I would also dearly like to find a good genuine radiator expansion bottle too. I have had to resort to using a Volvo one, which works well but looks wrong under the bonnet.

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scoobyh123
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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Mar 09, 2020 1:51 pm

That's a nuisance Adrian, i remember sending you that drivers switchpack a few years back.

If you get really stuck, you can always close the windows and sunroof using the "Lazy Locking" feature although this isn't practical if you just want a little less ventialtion driving along the road!

You could use a rear door switch to get the parts you need to repair the drivers door switch but it's a very fiddly job. Another option (almost as fiddly) is to replace the original switch element (which is a domed disc of metal - seriously!) with a tiny switch from RS and solder it in. There is another minor mod to be made that i don't recall just now but the biggest problem is to resecure the rocker base.

That is the same in both cases. I used some tiny (i mean really tiny!) 1mm self-tappers that were driven home using a 0.9mm Allen key. I think i took photos when i did mine, i'll try and find them.

I have some windows switch packs but firstly the post 96 packs are different and don't always work on earlier cars and vice versa. I think most of what i have is pre-96 but i'll have to check.

If you have a very fine soldering iron and can dismantle the switch pack, you can pop the rockers off the bases (mind the dentent spring etc inside) so you can see the row of soldered joints between the rocker bases - servicing those joints might restore correct operation.
With that in mind does the "up" direction of the drivers window switch sound and feel the same as the other working switches? If so, the solder service might just work. If it doesn't, it's probably fair to say the domed piece of metal has cracked - this loses the springy and clicky effects of the switch and also the electrical operation.

There are no good, new expansion tanks available now. Last two i heard of that were sold went to the same person and both failed in very short order. His car deserves the title "Garage Queen" as it really is immaculate inside and out (you could eat your dinner off the engine as long as you cleaned it to the same standard afterwards!) and doesn't do many miles. Hence for both of the new tanks to fail so quickly they must have been very poor!

I am currently looking at producing an aluminium expansion tank in the style of the original. It won't be a perfect copy but will be nearer than the Volvo conversion although the Volvo conversion doesn't look that wrong :

Image

Image

That said if you're using the older style torpedo tank, they do look a bit out of place.
If the aluminium one works out, i'm still struggling to find the original filler neck. I've found different ones that are for the "traditional" caps but none that are a direct equivalent to the Rover/Volvo thread.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
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pat5338
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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by pat5338 » Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:51 pm

Thanks for all that Dave. I did not really expect to find replacements for either and I guess I will have to get used to using the rear passenger switch on the panel to open and close the driver's window, and the sight of the Volvo expansion tank under the bonnet! Fortunately all the other door switches operate the correct windows, and although the drivers door switch panel no longer operates the front passenger window (either up or down) it is a simple matter to lean over and operate the switch on that door.
Reading through your message, it looks as though something has failed on the two front window switches, as both feel spongy- no noticeable click, which is present on the rear window switches.
I do wonder just how much longer I will be able to keep the car going, although it has no problem with the Warrant of Fitness inspections every 6 months, it has developed a manageable thirst for coolant (about 250ml, per week).
The other thing that I find interesting, is that my son's 1988(Mk1) 827Sli has the earlier radiator expansion tank, with the level detector and Max/Min level markings only half way up the side of the original expansion tank. That tank is still as good as new, with no signs of cracks or bulging. That car has never shown any signs of overheating, or requiring top-ups between services. Makes you wonder whether the later models much higher levels required, actually overstressed the tanks badly.

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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by scoobyh123 » Tue Mar 10, 2020 9:45 pm

Try a new cap on the expansion tank Adrian, could easily be where the coolant is going.

As for the tank on your sons Mk1, that would be about right. On the Mk2 tanks, they no longer used virgin polymer to make them so they were inherently weaker. If you look, the Mk2 tanks have a sort of "marble" stripey effect inside the polymer yet the Mk1 tanks are uniform in their clarity.

The marble effect is re-grind plastic that's already been used and has been ground down into granuls again to be recycled. It weakens the whole thing.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by neo » Thu Mar 12, 2020 4:23 pm

I agree MK2 tanks are not the same quality as earlier ones they leak all over the place especially the top section. Also worth taking the engine cover off and look into the v see if your losing coolant from the stat or pipe that goes to the water pump this is a common one on the kv6.
tony

pat5338
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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by pat5338 » Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:33 pm

I hope it is not the plastic thermostat housing or associated pipes as they were all replaced last year. And that was NOT a job I would like to repeat in a hurry. We made the dreadful mistake of dividing up the fuel rail instead of taking it off complete, as a result it took about 5 goes with new seals to get the whole thing fuel tight again!
I do have an original expansion tank but it is rather suspect and if I fit it, I doubt if it will last long. I guess in the meantime I will continue to use the Volvo one, which does appear to be much stronger. I have filled it to the level marked on the tank, but not too sure whether that is correct, or not.

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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by scoobyh123 » Sat Mar 14, 2020 10:44 pm

I'd stick with the Volvo tank Adrian, i've been running one for 12 years now with no problems - sometimes i was lucky to get that many days out of the secondhand Rover ones i tried at first!

Then i had the idea to use a Volvo one and went back to the same scrapyard and bought one - the rest as they say, is history!
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


Image
'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

pat5338
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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by pat5338 » Sun Mar 15, 2020 9:44 am

I suppose I could keep an eye out for one out of a Series 1 800. That would look right and should hopefully last better than the later expansion tanks.

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scoobyh123
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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by scoobyh123 » Sun Mar 15, 2020 12:53 pm

They're usually found on the shelf between the unicorn horns and rocking horse droppings Adrian! :P

If you can find one in any condition it'll be a minor miracle, if it's in good, useable condition, almost a major miracle!
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


Image
'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Drivers door switch panel

Post by neo » Mon Mar 16, 2020 6:05 pm

The early MK2 tanks are very rare indeed I have one on mine which is very good as it doesn't allow air in or water out which then cause loads of kv6 problems mainly hgf.so if you can't find one stick to the Volvo tank idea it works and should solve those underlying problems that we get with these motor's
tony

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