1990 Sterling

[midnite]

i would have robbed the rear seat electric kit, put it back standard and re sold it, to nice to break dave, even I'm not that mean.

[xpuffin]

Yep, electric rear seats.
Interior really is the best of the car.
Couldn't get it to start today, suspect the immobiliser as it was running fine yesterday.
Will get it through an mot then decide on what to do and how,and when.
I doubt the car will be back on the road for a while but the more I look at it the more there is to like. The MK1s just seem to have more simple lines.

[scoobyh123]

Could be the inhibitor switch is playing up from lack of use - try moving the gear lever quickly through all positions with the key held in the start position, usually works if the inhibitor switch contacts are a bit dirty. If it still won't turn over then it could be something nasty lke the starter motor or maybe the starter relay.
Also did you get the clicking from the main relay aka fuel pump relay under the dash?

[xpuffin]

Good call but it's turning but not firing.
I'll get the oh to crank tomorrow(fnnarrhhh) and I'll check for a spark.

[scoobyh123]

If memory serves correctly on the Mk1, the immobiliser stops the starter from turning. Could be worth checking the main relay/fuel pump relay under the dash (you should hear it click when you switch the ignition on and then click again 2-3 seconds later) and also the inertia switch which is hidden behind the front end of the centre console. If you can find it, tap it with a screwdriver handle, spanner or similar object until it goes "bad-oying" and gives a little rattle. Now press the button on top firmly to reset it. Often this little blighter is overlooked and can prevent a car from starting without triggering the unlock function on the central locking - quick, simply and free to test, it has to be worth a try.

Failing that wait for your glamorous assistant to crank it while you check for a spark. If you have a spark from the coil but not at the plugs, the number one suspect has to be leads, rotor arm or dizzy cap - or all 3 of them!

[deano]

or the igniter

[scoobyh123]

or the igniter

That would be no spark at all!

[deano]

maybe there is no spark though

[scoobyh123]

True but if you have a look at what i suggested, i'm going on the chance the ignitier and coil are still working and for the more likely dizzy cap/rotor arm/leads etc.

[deano]

yes, but I didn't read it properly

[scoobyh123]

yes, but I didn't read it properly

No worries!

[xpuffin]

Problem solved.
I took the fuse box out and tore it down. The mk1 box is far more complex than the mk2 regarding soldering as there is two layers.
Anyhoo, long story short I now have windows, seat heater, and a running engine.
I'm lucky enough to have my own 2 post lift (although it is outside ATM) got the car on it and it's really really good underneath.
Will get the local garage to mot the car to see what it fails on just in case I've missed something major that would tip the balance toward breaking the car.

[midnite]

ahhhaaa don't break it, but in the unthinkable event that you do, i want the interior and the whole electric rear seat set up, and i can collect IMMEDIATELY.

[xpuffin]

No I won't, the mot fail revealed pin holes in one sill, headlights not working and a weepy rear damper..........result
I shall collect parts over the next while and then I'm off nearly all Jan so let's see if I can get it done then.

[scoobyh123]

That's not a bad failure sheet. Until recently there was a pair of NOS Mk1 rear shock on ebay quite cheaply. The headlamps could be bulbs if your fusebox surgery hasn't got them going again.
A word to the wise though - don't be tempted to just renew the weepy shock on its own, it really upsets the handling and roadholding. I know it potentially doubles the cost but it seriously isn't worth messing about.