Usual Rover 800 Foibles

[wildrover04]

Hi,
I've just acquired my 3rd 800 Sterling coupe. This time, for the first time in about a dozen 800's it's a KV6.
Couple of issues other than needing a good clean up need some advice from previous sufferers, if possible.
1) R960 radio comes up "code" and I'm an expert a reprogramming these things, except this time, the "code" won't disappear from the display and I don't get a beep on pressing key 1. I think there is a cassette jammed in the unit, would this prevent the re-programming?
2) I've driven today, Thursday 17th, non-stop - virtually - from London City Airport to Glasgow. 410 miles. The heater didn't function any of the way. Water level in expansion tank looks normal, engine didn't/doesn't overheat - if anything, it's lower than half way, but above mininum temp., but I was on Cruise Control at 75 mph just about all the way, so it would have been nice to get some warm air.
If anyone has had these issues before, and been able to clear them, I'd be grateful to hear from you.
Cheers,
Brian
(wildrover04)
820e/820i/827 Vitesse/827 Si/820 i/827 Sterling Coupe/827 Sterling/827 Sterling Coupe/825 SD - LHD /825 SLD/825 SD/Sterling Coupe

[BlueRover]

Check there's a thermostat in the cooling system. Due to the low air temperature in recent days and the fact that the car doesn't heat up suggests that the thermostat is either faulty and staying open or it's been removed completely to prevent overheating. That being said, I think it should have warmed up in 400 odd miles of travel. As for the radio, I don't think a jammed cassette would prevent the code being entered.

[mjc9967]

My KV6 usually sits about 1/4 way up the temperature gauge - I would consider 1/2 way up getting a bit warmer than usual.

I ran my car a fairly long while (months) with faulty engine thermostat. The only noticeable thing was terrible fuel economy. It did not affect heater operation at all.

I think there is a separate temperature sender which among other things tells the heater to start working. On Mk1 800's I know this would also stop the temp gauge showing a reading, but maybe separate on Mk2's, or post 96 Mk2's (which year is yours?) Perhaps someone else can elaborate on that, but this may be something to look at.

As I say, main indicator of faulty engine stat is fuel economy (also exhaust smelling of fuel when it should be warm, obviously). As you have just done a long run you will have a good idea of economy. Low 20's should ring alarm bells, 28-33mpg would be more what to expect on a nice run like that.

[wildrover04]

Hi All, thanks for your thoughts.

Filled up with 11 gallons on North Circular Road in London which got me to Gretna on the Scottish border before fuel warning lamp came on. About 320 miles, = to c. 30 mpg. Not bad for 75 mph. Expect better than that on the KV6 at around 100 Kph (62 mph)

Car is on an S plate, with 93,000 miles on the clock. I have no history with it I'm afraid, so I took a risk in buying it (on ebay) as I've no idea if the Cam Belts have been replaced around 72,000 miles (is that the recommended change mileage for this model?) and the engine oil is pretty thick & gloopy so that will be getting done a.s.a.p.

I think I'll replace the thermostat as a first attempt. Water in expansion tank does get hot, doesn't push itself out of the tank under revving the engine, but the top horizontal hose above the radiator doesn't feel as thought there's any water (no pressure) going through it, though it does feel warm (but not hot)

Notice on switching on ignition that there is a an electrical "whirr" from the radio unit - which is a bit odd since it's locked ! Any ideas. I've a spare Sony stereo so if I can't get through the Code issue, I'll simply replace it.

Cheers,

Brian
(wildrover04)

[rovercoup]

code for radio are easy to get online in minutes and only cost 7-8 quid you just need to take down the serial number off the radio itself for input on the website, whilst the radio is out it would be worth putting the ignition on and see if you still have the whirring sound? if you do then it is the cabin themometer behind the dash on the lh side of the small vent.

[mjc9967]

Hello again, Brian.

I think peak fuel economy is at about 75mph, as you will have just achieved torque lock up on the gearbox (like a 5th gear), resulting in the lowest revs / mph. Your estimate of 30mpg sounds about right.

If the thermostat had failed, it would fail open, delivering max cooling all the time, causing engine to run colder than it should all the time and demand more fuel in the mixture, leading to very obvious poor fuel economy. Your fuel economy and report of temp guage reading suggest this is not the case.

Just supposing it were siezed closed, (although as I say failed position is open, by design), and this deprived the engine of coolant, you would surely have had noticeable overheating of the engine by now.

The thermostat is right down in the V of the engine, taking a fair bit of time (money?) and hassle to get at.

I would advise trying other things first, such as oil/filter change and coolant system pressure test (blockage in coolant system?). A road test with diagnostic equipment plugged in would confirm thermostat working OK (or not), but I feel from what you say that there is no evidence that yours is at fault.

This is all from having suffered a long term thermostat failure and investigations from that, so I am loading my own personal experiences onto your descriptions. Happy to be corrected by one of the many greater experts on here...

The lack of heat to the cabin intrigues me more.... as I said previously, I do know there is no connection between this and engine thermostat.

Hope this helps,

Mark

[dollysprint]

Check the hoses too the heater matrix are flowing coolant, I have seen one by-passed. Are all the buttons on the ATC opening and closing the air flaps to the heater?

As for the 960 radio it sounds like it has "frozen", try disconnecting power to it for 10 mins then reconnect.

Dave

[Alex SBY]

My guess is that someone has locked the stereo out. Try leaving it turned on for a while as it should eventually allow you to enter the code.

As for the heater, my money would be on the vacuum controlled bypass device. They can often stick. This gadget is located behind the engine near the bulkhead, is cylindrical and has a number of hoses going to it.

Next time you use the car, before you turn off the engine, set the heater to "high". Next time you start the car I wouldn't mind betting that you'll have a heater. Until the moment you alter the temperature on the climate panel, upon which it will go stone cold.

[wildrover04]

Hi, re radio, it was "on" for extended periods during my trip up north from London. It never allowed me to do the usual thing, press 1, for number 1, then the up/down toggle to the required code number. I wasn't getting a sound out of it.
Electric aerial goes up and down OK, so that part of the electrical gubbins is all working OK.

Will try that trick on switching off the engine, to see whether I get some heat on next trip - will advise.

cheers.

[wildrover04]

Not used the car much this week but the 400 mile drive certainly recharged the battery OK.

Bit damp in the boot, will have to check for source of the leak. Taken the carpet/spare wheel cover out.

Noticed at this point there is no Polystyrene container with jack/wheelbrace etc. Does anyone have a good source for these items?

Also have given up waiting for the radio to "unfreeze" so will pay £20 this afternoon to a local car audio centre to re-code it for me with my own choice of PIN no.

Will also find out whether the heater is working any better at this time ;o)