Mark's 1999V 825 Sterling Auto Saloon in BRG

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JulianO'Connor
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Post by JulianO'Connor » Wed Mar 04, 2009 6:50 pm

Top stuff, makes things much more liveable I think.
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Richard Moss
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Re: Electrical Update

Post by Richard Moss » Wed Mar 04, 2009 6:55 pm

mjc9967 wrote: Drivers switch pack - only up function for front pass window inop, everything else good - new pack needed just for that!

Gear change LED's - would need whole circuit board - on look out for one with lights working
You could attack them with a soldering iron!
Last edited by Richard Moss on Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT

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Post by JulianO'Connor » Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:23 pm

I've not seen one but if the leds are surface mounted you'll have little to zero luck
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Post by mjc9967 » Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:16 am

JulianO'Connor wrote:I've not seen one but if the leds are surface mounted you'll have little to zero luck
Yeah thats what I've always heard. Would have been a good idea to make them replaceable eh?
Mark

91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k

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Post by JulianO'Connor » Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:31 am

True for us, but it wasn't in the dealer's best interests!
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Post by mjc9967 » Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:59 am

A late update on gearshift LED's

Got this sorted among almost all the other niggles a few months ago but never got round to posting.

It turns out that there is only one gearshift LED that is fixed to the side of the gear selector under the fascia, so illuminating the relevant white spot when selector is shifted.

In my case the solder had simply broken, and was resoldered so it now works. Nice! Been bugging me for years that and much simpler to fix than I'd thought.

The story about needing new circuit board with a series of hard wired LED's inside was relating to my M reg 820SLi, so not the case for the Jatco in a KV6 I guess.

Also got the drivers switch pack replaced with used one from Greengingers. His was a little scuffed compared to mine so switched the fascia with my existing one so you'd never know the difference.

Since then EVERYTHING WORKS - amazing!!! :D

PS MoT passed in Oct09 after NS CV gaitor changed, advisory rear brake pads wearing thin (think theyre the originals)
Mark

91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k

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Post by Nuts4my827 » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:56 am

Nice. Didn't know the selector illumination was different on KV6 box. When the lights don't light up, if its dodgy circuit, it stops the gearbox selecting properly....

Greengingers is an excellent chap, and a good source of parts.
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Post by mjc9967 » Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:58 pm

Yep well apparently so on these ones. In this case just broken solder to the light hence no effect on box operation. Good its isolated really, although that said other types suffer selector light loss without affecting the box either...
Mark

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Post by neo » Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:24 pm

tell me more where abouts is the hidden broken solder as mine has never worked since i have owned it when you say fascia is that under the gear shift panel.

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Post by mjc9967 » Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:43 pm

Yes by under the fascia I mean the plastic panel that has P R N D etc and the light spots along the righthand side of the gear selector itself.

I had the job done by Rover Centre St Albans (not far from you), off the London Rd as you head out from the centre towards London Colney, so I am only repeating what they told me at the time to be honest. Why not give them a call (01727 834004). If you do, speak to Andrew, tell him you know me and remind him they did it to my "Green Mk2" (they have 3 cars of mine going in and out). Owen is the guy that actually did it, if you want yours done (assuming the same fault) I can say they definatley know how to fix it. Very reasonable on the prices too. Andrew or Owen should be happy to talk you through it, they are good guys.

Its one of those which when you get it fixed really puts a smile on your face for a good while when you see it lit up!
Mark

91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k

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Post by neo » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:01 pm

cheers for that mark will give them a call and see what they say :D

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Post by mjc9967 » Tue Feb 09, 2010 1:56 pm

OK had some small dramas the last few days.

Had the cars parked up best part of a month due hols from work. Left handbrake off to prevent binding.

Left the house merrily to go to work last Friday, nothing fom fob unlocking green Sterling. Used key to get in, found battery dead. Red Mk1 parked in narrow side return of house, behind green car, so jump start from that one not possible. Silver Mk1 in accessible position, but battery dead due to known drain problem. Three cars but no options! Bugger.

So expensive taxi to work and train from work that day. Just made it in time.

That night, set about removing green car battery to charge it overnight. Couldn't get at the battery clamp bolt properly, despite having done it before with my limited tool kit. Spent a good couple hours with busses and walking to get to nearest Halfords and got a 1/2" drive socket set that included a 10" extension bar. Got back with some hope in my soul, access to bolt fine now, bloody thing rusted solid and corners wore of the bolt head! Running out of options now!

Managed to get the battery out of the silver Mk1, got it on charge overnight.

Next morning, up early, fitted battery back in silver car, started her up, nosed it in to the green car, gave her a revving. Connected jump leads. On connecting the final croc clip, it all sparked and silver engine died. Turned out the plastic cover showing the +ve terminal on one of the batteries was on the wrong side, and following this I had shorted them! Worse still, the silver car appeared to have no juice left to give! Had a small panic attack (I'm trying to get to work here).

Without much hope, tried a second time to restart the silver car, miraculously it started strong as ever. Reconnected leads (carefully this time!) and got the green one running. Phew! Reparked the silver car (removed the battery terminal leads this time to preserve the charge), and went to pull away in the green.

As I pulled away, car stuck in position against the brakes. Not wanting to risk stalling the engine, I gave a little wellie and one by one the four wheels brakes unstuck with a decent dong sound from each one. Not sure why, as I had left handbrake off for this reason. Then, a lump in driving as the wheels rotated. The lump while driving receded, but stayed when braking. It also caused a wobble when at speed. When I got to work, the rear wheels were covered in rust coloured brake dust.

So far we have reached Saturday. Had to drive home that night, and into work again Sunday morning. Night stopped away, so didnt drive home again until Monday night.

This morning, took it my garage. I'd told them the problem Saturday morning by phone, so they'd ordered in discs pads and recon calipers all round. Just got home with 4 x discs and pads renewed. Calipers were ok, but carriers had crud and corrosion built up, which was restricting pad movement, so they were cleaned up and the whole lot greased and cleaned as appropriate.

Front sliders need renewing, but slider kit not available (BAU5642) - if anyone has one could they please let me know? For now they have been cleaned up etc.

All in all, a damned stressful few days! Irony is that I was just off at home for over 3wks, and could have seen to this with ease, but didnt have the problem then! Sods law eh?
Mark

91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k

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Post by CHR15E » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:46 pm

That's some story.

I can't see that you'll actually need the slider kit. Another set of carriers should be fine. As long as the boots are ok they'll last for years.

Have the boots perished on yours and let water in?
Chris
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Post by whitelion58 » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:50 pm

some days ( weeks!) everything just seems to conspire against you...
As has been said before, the problem with having multiple cars is that they always all break at the same time...

About the sliders - I assume you mean the pins with the rubber concertina things? It seems common for these to wear and then the calipers rattle all the time, which is really annoying. Not sure if the wear is in the pin or the brass housing they slide in, but I wish they were available!

I swapped to a better set on my red saloon a few months ago, which silenced them, but now they are rattling again. I suspect the rattle is worse when the pads wear down. "One day" I will find someone with a lathe to make a slightly oversize set to take up the wear - can't be hard..

Tim
'86 825 Sterling Saloon
'90 827 Si Fastback
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Post by CHR15E » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:57 pm

Are you sure it's the carriers rattling Tim and not the pads?

I've never known carriers to rattle.
Chris
19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 V8 HO

Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold

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