Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
- scoobyh123
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
The straight through pipe instead of the cat will improve performance and economy by about 15% each so if either are down then you need to look elsewhere, in this case the PGM-Fi ECU has told you one of the Lambdas is playing up.
I've never had to touch an EGR valve so if it's not showing a fault, leave it be!
As for fitting the new sensors, do you have any crimping pliers for uninsulted terminals, sometimes called "W" crimp terminals?
I'll try to find the link for the Lambda socket for you as well but that will be tomorrow now.
I've never had to touch an EGR valve so if it's not showing a fault, leave it be!
As for fitting the new sensors, do you have any crimping pliers for uninsulted terminals, sometimes called "W" crimp terminals?
I'll try to find the link for the Lambda socket for you as well but that will be tomorrow now.
- Nuts4my827
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Not looking forward to my Lambda Sensors. PIG of a job. NO Space
Phil B
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
- scoobyh123
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-Tools-La ... SwpDdVDRFoscoobyh123 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:33 pmI'll try to find the link for the Lambda socket for you as well but that will be tomorrow now.
That makes life much easier!
- Charles827si
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
That's good news Charles - if you get some of these crimps :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uninsulated- ... C7jtPMMVlg
you can pop the terminal out of the green plug on the old sensor using a thin screwdriver to lever up the retaining tang in the plug housing, crimp the terminal on in place of whatever the sensors are supplied with then push the terminal into the green plug - retains the "factory" look and saves messing about with butt-splices that introduce 2 extra joins into the system!
Don't forget to remove the rubber bung from the plug and fit onto the wire of the new sensor before crimping the terminal on though! Please don't ask how i know to tell you about this little tip!
As for the socket, it has the slot in the sidewall for the wire and a 1/2" square hole in the "ear" on the top of the socket to fit a ratchet or breaker bar into. The sensors are buried quite deep under the heat shields on the manifolds (use an old door mirror glass to see where the sensors are if necessary) hence the socket being deep. I have on occasion used a cranked ring spanner but it's touch and go if it's deep enough and has a tendency to slip off the sensor - not good!
Put a smear of copper grease on the threads of the new sensor before you fit it, there is a small bit of grey anti-sieze compound on them but not really enough.
When you've done both sensors, remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox to clear the faults from the PGM-Fi ECU (also clears faults on the ABS and EAT ECUs as well) for about a minute - i normally pull fuse "S" before starting to do the sensors and replace afterwards - NB the car won't start if you leave the fuse out!
I'd suggest doing the back one first as it's easier and will give you some practice in readiness for doing the front one which can be a bit tricky.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uninsulated- ... C7jtPMMVlg
you can pop the terminal out of the green plug on the old sensor using a thin screwdriver to lever up the retaining tang in the plug housing, crimp the terminal on in place of whatever the sensors are supplied with then push the terminal into the green plug - retains the "factory" look and saves messing about with butt-splices that introduce 2 extra joins into the system!
Don't forget to remove the rubber bung from the plug and fit onto the wire of the new sensor before crimping the terminal on though! Please don't ask how i know to tell you about this little tip!
As for the socket, it has the slot in the sidewall for the wire and a 1/2" square hole in the "ear" on the top of the socket to fit a ratchet or breaker bar into. The sensors are buried quite deep under the heat shields on the manifolds (use an old door mirror glass to see where the sensors are if necessary) hence the socket being deep. I have on occasion used a cranked ring spanner but it's touch and go if it's deep enough and has a tendency to slip off the sensor - not good!
Put a smear of copper grease on the threads of the new sensor before you fit it, there is a small bit of grey anti-sieze compound on them but not really enough.
When you've done both sensors, remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox to clear the faults from the PGM-Fi ECU (also clears faults on the ABS and EAT ECUs as well) for about a minute - i normally pull fuse "S" before starting to do the sensors and replace afterwards - NB the car won't start if you leave the fuse out!
I'd suggest doing the back one first as it's easier and will give you some practice in readiness for doing the front one which can be a bit tricky.
- Charles827si
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Can give it a go...
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Good luck and have fun when it's done!
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Well......not great news Both EGR sensors are stuck in rusted solid. Earlier this week, I've given them quite liberal dousings of WD40 on two occasions and will do again today. Because it they break, then it's an engine out job, which I don't want.
They look to be original sensors, so that's 25 years they have been in there, exposed to the elements and the heat from the exhaust manifold. So this is gonna take time.
Watch this space.
They look to be original sensors, so that's 25 years they have been in there, exposed to the elements and the heat from the exhaust manifold. So this is gonna take time.
Watch this space.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Try using a breaker bar with the Lambda sensor socket Charles - it's tight getting in there with one but can be done. I've found it's usually the only way to shift the sensors as like you say, they've usually been in a long time!
PS they're unlikely to break, the thread is fairly coarse on them so once you've shifted them they should unscrew relatively easily.
PS they're unlikely to break, the thread is fairly coarse on them so once you've shifted them they should unscrew relatively easily.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
I'll give that a go Dave. May need to borrow said breaker bar off somebody.scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:41 amTry using a breaker bar with the Lambda sensor socket Charles - it's tight getting in there with one but can be done. I've found it's usually the only way to shift the sensors as like you say, they've usually been in a long time!
PS they're unlikely to break, the thread is fairly coarse on them so once you've shifted them they should unscrew relatively easily.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
If you don't have one Charles, it might be a good time to invest in one :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 4&_sacat=0
That's what i found on a quick search, the first listing in that lot comes up with a price for a 24" breaker bar of £12.95 posted - you'll wonder how you managed without one for so long!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 4&_sacat=0
That's what i found on a quick search, the first listing in that lot comes up with a price for a 24" breaker bar of £12.95 posted - you'll wonder how you managed without one for so long!
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Maybe you've already done this but a good tip when removing things from the ex manifold is to run the car hot and then soak the part with wd40. Mind the fumes! This can be repeated for a few days. Then when removing, don't put leaverage on the bar/spanner, rather give it a good wack with a hammer as this will crack the rust.
Henrik
Rover 820 Vitesse Coupe 180bhp -93 (Italy)
Rover 827 Vitesse manual (non cat) -89 (Spain)
Lexus GS450h -13
Austin Seven Special -36
Gone:
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Yeah, I still haven't got these things to shift. The problem is I can't get the breaker bar in So I'm letting it soak now and then and next time I'll have it hot
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Have you tried getting the socket onto the sensor then fitting the breaker bar in Charles? It's tricky trying to get the pair of them in together.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
I'll attempt round 3 during the week Dave, taking on board all suggestions thus far..
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