Bonkers 1654
- scoobyh123
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Re: Bonkers 1654
It certainly would, yes. There's a portion of the caliper cylinder above the bleed nipple and it's orifice when it's all mounted up :
If you unbolt the bottom of the caliper and swing it up so the bleed nipple is uppermost then you can get all the air out, otherwise the bubbles in the fluid rise above the nipple orifice.
Also does the car have ABS and if so, does it have the correct ABS master cylinder fitted? Non-ABS master cylinders are different and (so i've heard anyway) can cause bleeding problems and/or braking problems.
Lastly, it might pay to slacken the handbrake cable, remove the rear brake pads, wind the pistons back in, clean and lube the handbrake cam etc on the caliper, refit the pads, bleed the whole system (left rear, right rear, front left, front right), give the brake pedal a few good stamps until you hear the auto-adjusters ratchet up on the rears then adjust the handbrake again. Obviously make sure that everything that should move and be lubed is and maybe while the rear pads are out, roughen the surface with some sandpaper.
If you unbolt the bottom of the caliper and swing it up so the bleed nipple is uppermost then you can get all the air out, otherwise the bubbles in the fluid rise above the nipple orifice.
Also does the car have ABS and if so, does it have the correct ABS master cylinder fitted? Non-ABS master cylinders are different and (so i've heard anyway) can cause bleeding problems and/or braking problems.
Lastly, it might pay to slacken the handbrake cable, remove the rear brake pads, wind the pistons back in, clean and lube the handbrake cam etc on the caliper, refit the pads, bleed the whole system (left rear, right rear, front left, front right), give the brake pedal a few good stamps until you hear the auto-adjusters ratchet up on the rears then adjust the handbrake again. Obviously make sure that everything that should move and be lubed is and maybe while the rear pads are out, roughen the surface with some sandpaper.
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Depends whether it has ABS or not - if it does have that's not much more than a simple connector or as Rover call it, a "Copy Valve". Annoyingly they look pretty much the same.............Alucard7002 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:27 pmCheck brake proportioning valve on the bulkhead in the "front that you have designated the front" (this will get confusing fast!)
My first thought would be to replace it with something like this :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/112057284065?c ... 912&crdt=0
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Re: Bonkers 1654
The front end did have ABS, but i removed it as it seemed easier than trying to put ABS on the rear plus the ECU was missing.
I've already swapped the non abs master cylinder over and bled the the rear brakes, including removing the pistons twice and only using the handbrake after the brake has been pumped up a few times.
I've pretty much done everything apart from lifting the caliper higher as suggested by Dave
The proportioning valve has also been swapped over, but it's not leaking from the check valve so i assume it ok?
I've already swapped the non abs master cylinder over and bled the the rear brakes, including removing the pistons twice and only using the handbrake after the brake has been pumped up a few times.
I've pretty much done everything apart from lifting the caliper higher as suggested by Dave
The proportioning valve has also been swapped over, but it's not leaking from the check valve so i assume it ok?
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Did you slacken the handbrake cable before using the footbrake to ratchet the back brakes up on the auto-adjusters after bleeding them?
Other than that, only thing i can think of is try lifting the front calipers up (fairly sure the back ones have the nipples uppermost anyway) to bleed that "void" in them.
Other than that, only thing i can think of is try lifting the front calipers up (fairly sure the back ones have the nipples uppermost anyway) to bleed that "void" in them.
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Yeah, i did that once, but before that, on the other time, the arm was on the stop so it wouldn't matter?scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:04 pmDid you slacken the handbrake cable before using the footbrake to ratchet the back brakes up on the auto-adjusters after bleeding them?
Other than that, only thing i can think of is try lifting the front calipers up (fairly sure the back ones have the nipples uppermost anyway) to bleed that "void" in them.
I changed the piston on my MK4 Astra recently. Why can't this go the same way
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
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Re: Bonkers 1654
In theory if the arm is on the stop then it shouldn't matter but the rear calipers have a reputation for being quirky and only wanting to do the job once at any one time, i slacken the handbrake cable each time, just to be on the safe side.
The other thing is i expect your Astra is in fairly regular use which would make bleeding much easier than a car that has, to all intents and purposes, been laid up for several years.
The other thing is i expect your Astra is in fairly regular use which would make bleeding much easier than a car that has, to all intents and purposes, been laid up for several years.
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Re: Bonkers 1654
True, but i've probably ran 2 litres of fluid through the 8272.scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:25 pmIn theory if the arm is on the stop then it shouldn't matter but the rear calipers have a reputation for being quirky and only wanting to do the job once at any one time, i slacken the handbrake cable each time, just to be on the safe side.
The other thing is i expect your Astra is in fairly regular use which would make bleeding much easier than a car that has, to all intents and purposes, been laid up for several years.
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
1990 Rover Sterling - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
1990 Rover Sterling - Sold
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Re: Bonkers 1654
I used almost 5L in my Sterling when i did it, right pig to bleed as well! I hadn't discovered the thing about the front calipers then either!
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Makes sense, well i've ordered 3 litres more, will see how it goes !!scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:39 pmI used almost 5L in my Sterling when i did it, right pig to bleed as well! I hadn't discovered the thing about the front calipers then either!
Thanks for yours and others help as always.
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
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- scoobyh123
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Good luck, let us all know how it goes and when you get the pass certificate!
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Cheers will do!! Need to quieten it down, 100.7db is just over the allowed 99db!!Boo. Mind you, it's a drag with that noisescoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:46 pmGood luck, let us all know how it goes and when you get the pass certificate!
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
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Re: Bonkers 1654
austinpowers wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:51 pmCheers will do!! Need to quieten it down, 100.7db is just over the allowed 99db!!Boo. Mind you, it's a drag with that noisescoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:46 pmGood luck, let us all know how it goes and when you get the pass certificate!
What (if any!) exhaust have you got on it???
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Centre silencer going to side exit, right under the sill jacking point!!scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 16, 2017 12:07 amaustinpowers wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:51 pmCheers will do!! Need to quieten it down, 100.7db is just over the allowed 99db!!Boo. Mind you, it's a drag with that noisescoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:46 pmGood luck, let us all know how it goes and when you get the pass certificate!
What (if any!) exhaust have you got on it???
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Pretty much none then!
Depends whether you want to keep the side exit exhaust and if so, if you want to keep it where it is. You could fit a limo exhaust which is pretty much a standard system with an extension piece but how does the length of the car compare to the normal 800?
I suspect the easiest way would be to trawl the universal silencer section of ebay and add some silencers and length to the system. You could also fit the exhaust from "a little grey Fergie" tractor. If you fit it "as is" it has a disc welded in about halfway through to provide back pressure and with it some extra silencing. You could knock the disc out but i'm not sure how close it will then come to that magic 99dB figure.
Can't remember which one i used but they start about £20 :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... t&_sacat=0
Some years back i built a system for my Sterling that used a "little grey Fergie" exhaust as the middle box (disc removed) and that was reasonably quiet even without the back boxes which were a pair of Poly-Zhaust back boxes, both twin outlet, one each side with a T-piece just behind the fuel tank. That was pretty quiet, you could hear it was a V6 if i hoofed it but only just. I've now got one of those Poly-Zhaust silencers on my Volvo, again it's very quiet but you can hear it's a V6 if i hoof it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Hig ... 7KBR-P4KUQ
Bad news is there aren't any twin outlets left (i know exactly where the last two went though! ) but probably one of the most cost-effective ways of getting it quiet enough to get through the SVA. Hopefully some food for thought for you there!
Depends whether you want to keep the side exit exhaust and if so, if you want to keep it where it is. You could fit a limo exhaust which is pretty much a standard system with an extension piece but how does the length of the car compare to the normal 800?
I suspect the easiest way would be to trawl the universal silencer section of ebay and add some silencers and length to the system. You could also fit the exhaust from "a little grey Fergie" tractor. If you fit it "as is" it has a disc welded in about halfway through to provide back pressure and with it some extra silencing. You could knock the disc out but i'm not sure how close it will then come to that magic 99dB figure.
Can't remember which one i used but they start about £20 :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... t&_sacat=0
Some years back i built a system for my Sterling that used a "little grey Fergie" exhaust as the middle box (disc removed) and that was reasonably quiet even without the back boxes which were a pair of Poly-Zhaust back boxes, both twin outlet, one each side with a T-piece just behind the fuel tank. That was pretty quiet, you could hear it was a V6 if i hoofed it but only just. I've now got one of those Poly-Zhaust silencers on my Volvo, again it's very quiet but you can hear it's a V6 if i hoof it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Hig ... 7KBR-P4KUQ
Bad news is there aren't any twin outlets left (i know exactly where the last two went though! ) but probably one of the most cost-effective ways of getting it quiet enough to get through the SVA. Hopefully some food for thought for you there!
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Re: Bonkers 1654
Shame as that would be perfect but it's too long if i intend to keep it side exit, i do have the other centre silencer from when the engine was in the other end, but the new handbrake cable arrangement means i can't use the exhaust shield.
I need a small silencer around 20cm or so.
How it is now.
I need a small silencer around 20cm or so.
How it is now.
Last edited by austinpowers on Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1989 Rover Sterling in Atlantic blue 35k miles. - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
1990 Rover Sterling - Sold
2017 "special" edition in white
1990 Rover Vitesse manual - Sold
1990 Rover Sterling - Sold
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