Errrrr...........................no. Almost but not quite.scotty2 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 8:46 amThe sliding caliper set up is something I have worked on before at least very similar.
Critical steps are:
Do not have the handbrake on.
Follow manual as in: Unbolt caliper retaining bolts, withdraw caliper, remove old pads, clean, open bleed with a length of plastic pipe on it, wind in pistons clockwise and line up one of the grooves with the pip on the newly fitted pads.
Close bleed, replace caliper ensuring the pip locates in the groove, replace retaining bolts.
Start engine and pump brakes until the pistons have taken up the slack. Check rotation of hubs with brakes on and off to ensure free play when off.
Refit road wheels and check handbrake operation.
Lower car back on the road and torque up wheel nuts.
There - Did I pass ?
Before starting, remove handbrake trim (two screws visible when the arm rest cubby lid is lifted) and slide it up the handbrake lever to remove.
Release handbrake and then slacken handbrake adjuster so there is a lot of free play in the cable.
Then follow your procedure, tightening and adjusting the handbrake cable just before refitting the wheels etc. On yours, being a later car with a long travel to the first notch/click on the handbrake lever, it's 3-5 clicks to be fully on, on my 94 Sterling, it doesn't have the "empty" area on the ratchet so it's 5-7 clicks to be fully on.
This ensures the auto-adjusters have the necessary room to move properly to make sure they continue to work. An early sign of seized/seizing caliper is the pads only contacting the disc in the centre of their area leaving a bright ring on the disc where they contact and the outer and inner areas of where they should contact not being touched.
If you remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox for 30s it will reset the ABS fault codes and also the engine ECU. As it's a MEMS ECU, it will take anything up to 200 miles to relearn/tune the idle andsome running trims but it's better than the other method of switching the ignition on/off 20+ times with the diagnostic link connected to the brake pedal switch!
The friction fighter/seal conditioner will do the same job as the ATF-U but may not help clean the engine and is probably more expensive - should quieten the tappets as well i hope! The ATF-U will definitely do that.
Purely as a precaution, i'd slacken the handbrake adjuster, hit the brakes a few times to get the extra few clicks on the adjusters then adjust the handbrake cable. You may get several clicks on each calipers auto-adjuster, only 1 or 2 or maybe even none at all but at least you will know everything is as it should be and you've taken all reasonable precautions against caliper failure or uselss service brakes. Oddly the handbrake is often better when it's incorrectly adjusted but to get both the handbrake and service brakes to work properly, you need to do the handbrake cable slackening etc.