827 Coupe in Estonia

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CHR15E
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Post by CHR15E » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:02 pm

The indicators on MK1s are prone to that happening. Haven't seen many MK2s do the same though.
Chris
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Post by Kyle » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:23 pm

The rubber seal looks a little worse for wares. I remember the rubber seal used to keep coming loose on one of mine, ended up gluing it.

Perhaps its had a bash at some point
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Post by Random Hero » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:33 pm

Tenesmus wrote:How much would it cost you to visit the UK for a couple of days and bring back the parts you need?
Probably more than the car itself.

Rubber seal on what? I've been at the uni and working all day, I can't understand anything any more.

I know that the sending won't be cheap. Once I get the car running, I'll make a list of the cosmetic stuff I'll need, hope for one of you guys to gather and package at least some of it and send it to me. Will still be a lot cheaper than ordering everything via ebay and most of the car parts traders won't even bother with such small stuff.

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Post by Random Hero » Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:46 pm

Finally after tearing most of the front end apart, I got to the transmission guesswork. The ECU box gives me 9 blinks. Since the manual is not in reach and I can't find a list for the error codes, could one of you look it up for me?

When the car is started the S4 is off. After a little while it starts to blink and sometimes stays on.

Also, what does the S4 button do on the gear lever? I know that in S mode it should be sporty, but what is the button on it for?

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CHR15E
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Post by CHR15E » Sat Apr 25, 2009 4:14 pm

9 Blinks
Symptom
• Lock-up clutch does not engage

Possible casues
• Disconnect counter shaft speed sensor • Open or short in countershaft pick-up circuit
• Faulty countershaft pick-up


S mode holds onto gears longer. When in S it only uses gears 1-3. Being in S the selecting S4 uses all four gears AFAIK.
Chris
19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 V8 HO

Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold

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Post by Random Hero » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:38 pm

could the ECU box also show engine errors? The friend who has the manual said something about the engine, but I can't remember what it exactly was.
EDIT: http://rover800.gaima.co.uk/Rover800/ww ... ltcode.htm
9 blinks - No. 1 TDC cylinder sensor electrical fault :?:

Also, should I be able to open the boot lid with the key or by the push of something? I have tried both the keys I have and until now I haven't figured out if the lock there is only an optical detail or should it open something, because it doesn't.

After how many km should I change the cam belt? this one has been on for 5 years and has done 20 000km.

Next jobs to do: oil filter is leaking, the oil itself is probably old, change that. Transmission fluid is probably ancient too.
Last edited by Random Hero on Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Richard Moss » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:58 pm

The boot lock should open with the key - it has probably corroded inside. On my mk1 Sterling I removed the lock, dismantled it and oiled it with WD40. After a little work it now moves perfectly.

The cambelt on the V6 engines (Honda or Rover engines) should be changed every 96,000 miles (153,000 km) and every 8 years, according to my Rover workshop manual.

I've uploaded copies of the maintenance schedule to my photobucket account - just follow the links below:

[Sheet one]

[Sheet two]
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT

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Post by Random Hero » Thu May 07, 2009 6:38 pm

Now I am in front of a dilemma. Maybe someone of you can come up with a good piece of advice.

I live in the middle of the town, so I won't be driving around very much anyways, but I need a set of tires for the summer because the ones I have on at the moment are winter tires with studs and are rather new. Since I am going to be flat broke sooner or later, I am going for a set of 2nd hand tires.

Choice 1: 2nd hand Nokian HAKKAPELIITTA Q M+S tires with 6-7mm thread. Will save me the effort of changing the tires every 2 seasons.

Choice 2: 2nd hand CONTINENTAL SPORT CONTACT with 4-5mm thread on them or MICHELIN PILOT PRIMACY with 5mm.

The price difference between the 1st and 2nd choice is about the same as a tire shop takes for swapping tires, so when winter arrives, the result would be monetarily the same.

Long story short: all-year round M+S tires or summer+winter and hassle every spring and autumn. Some say that M+S tires wear out very quick when driven in summer, others don't notice the difference.

I hope I have not become an annoying noob. :(

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Post by CHR15E » Thu May 07, 2009 6:56 pm

Random Hero wrote:I hope I have not become an annoying noob. :(
Don't be daft. :D

Difficult for us to advise you in this case though as we don't use winter tyres in this country really.
Chris
19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 V8 HO

Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold

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Post by mjc9967 » Wed May 13, 2009 4:58 pm

Hello and welcome to the site.

May I first say how amazing your English is! Not just technical correctness but your imaginative and colourful choice of phrase. Very impressive in any non native English speaker.

By the way, easyJet fly Talinn to London Stansted. You should be able to do it for under GBP100.00 return, if you keep it to the baggage limit (or pay a few pounds extra per kilo on top) it could be time and cost effective if you have enough things you want to get?

Check out www.rimmerbros.co.uk for some parts - they have some great deals on some genuine "old" parts for the Coupe. I know at the moment they have a very cheap price on the "scuttle panel" - the black wide metal finisher that goes at the bottom of your windscreen - they are usually a bit rusty and will be hard to get when they have sold them all. May need to check for Left Hand drive compatibility of course.

Well done and enjoy the car!
Mark

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91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
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Post by Random Hero » Wed May 13, 2009 5:31 pm

Thank you for the compliments :)

I just noticed that most of my money is really gone and all that I REALLY need are the front indicators. and the driver's license. The indicators will cost me about 30£ which is not that much and everything else needs just some elbow grease.

Went for a drive today. Well, the 15 liters of petrol we had once filled in was gone and we were stuck in the middle of the busiest part of downtown Even our efforts with a bottle of petrol were in vain. It seems that being parked on a hill meant that until the gas tank has a reasonable amount of petrol in it, it won't be going anywhere.

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Post by mjc9967 » Thu May 14, 2009 12:16 pm

Push it to point it downhill for the manouever?
Mark

91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
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Post by Random Hero » Thu May 14, 2009 12:53 pm

The coupe like all other 800s is not a car you'd want to push uphill on a busy, yet very narrow road. It took 3 of us to push it out of the holes in the tarmac in the parking lot. Put in 5 liters of petrol and it started moving.

I just received info that there is a coupe like mine in a scrapyard in the other end of the country, but since I'll be heading that way in two weeks anyways, I'll see what I can salvage.

Now that the exam session at the university has started both for me and my mechanic friend, it'll take some time until I get everything sorted out. As we were driving yesterday, something started rattling horrendously near the left front wheel. Probably didn't tighten something well enough. Also the ABS sensor started acting up, engaging on parking speeds.

As I said before, needs lots of elbow grease and time, but with the university coming first, everything will be postponed.

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Post by Random Hero » Sun May 17, 2009 2:18 pm

damit.

The car is in my friend's hands, since I don't have a license. A few minutes ago he rings me up and tells me that something is very wrong. He tried to reverse out of the parking lot and when he put in the reverse, all it did was a loud bang/clank. He didn't try anything further in fear of damaging the box.

I know this is not much data, but could this be because of the gearbox oil. When we wiped the dipstick with a white rag, it looked like lean coffee, but still somewhat transparent. That can't be good.

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Post by CHR15E » Sun May 17, 2009 2:30 pm

Hard to say from that, it could be a few things.

A look underneath and a tug at the driveshafts should give you some idea of what's happening.

It could also be suspension related, not forced to be the gearbox.
Chris
19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 V8 HO

Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold

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