1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by scoobyh123 » Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:57 pm

Richard Moss wrote:
Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:38 pm
I've never been a fan of Strombergs - a Triumph-inspired, less reliable version of SUs in my opinion.
A good condition SU is a fine piece of kit but American carbs work well on American engines
Wholeheartedly agree Richard, the Stromberg is an over-complicated animal to start with compared to the SU (Simple Uncomplicated - i know it should be Skinners Union but that works for me too) but compounded by the auto-choke that was on Marcs (FASD or was that SU only, can't remember now) and generally too prone to failure and wear.

Out of all the V8s i ran (5 in total) i only had one with a pair of Strombergs (manual choke) and it soon became apparent they were faulty - 18mpg at best on a good day was a big clue! All the other V8s i used to get 28mpg from and after i replaced the Strombergs with SUs i once again got 28mpg from it.

As you rightly point out, USA carbs work the best on USA engines, i just hope i haven't given Marc any ideas with that Wiki article - it mentions the Oldsmobile Cutlass Turbo that used the same engine............. :P :wink: :D
Cheers,
Dave

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Thu Oct 01, 2020 1:45 pm

Thanks for the info as always Dave!!

I understand wat you mean Richard. I talked to a specialist what he would do and he even did not want to rebuild the Strombergs. Het was willing to install SU carbs because they are more reliable but then i would need a hand choke and that would mean that my interior would have to come apart again. Not an option.
We use this old brute like it is supposed to. Driven and enjoyed around the continent and therefor reliability is number one priority.:)
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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Sun Nov 01, 2020 12:58 am

A while ago i wanted to clean and check the bottom side of my Rover Vanden Plas. I asked my boss if i could use the lifts and that was no problem! :) First i sprayed a cleaner on the underside and then hosed of everything. It was not very dirty but the loose stuff was gone.
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Of course one hopes not to find rust but i did came across some areas that needed attention. At first i was a bit shocked but then i understood that a 38 year old car always has rust, especially an SD1.
This was the floor on the right side. The left side was almost as bad. On a few places it rusted all the way but the main area was the circle. It looks worse than it was because of the rusty moist that got in and left its colour around the car. Besides the rotted circle there were some holes that i welded shut with a plate or with the welder.
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I cut out the circle bigger and made a new circle of fresh steel.
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This circle was welded from the bottom. Because fire is a hungry and fast ellement i covered the interior to be sure no fires could start. Also a mate was present so that he could help with pressurized air or a fire hose.
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After this is applied a rust preventive primer and sealed the seems with sealent.
Right side:
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Left side:
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Additional primer so i could apply colour:
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Coloured and old plugs re-installed. Every thing was cleaned after all the work.
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Because i had to remove the old sound deadening i installend new one:
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Bottom side of the welded circles with rust preventive primer and sealer:
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Next place was the left rear wheel arch. The edge behind the wheel spat was completely rusted away. I had to make all the parts new.
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From the left rear wheel well you could see the inside of the boot.... Not good! Behind the towing eye rust formed.
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First i cut open the steel from the boot. After i cleaned the steel properly i applied zink coating on the inside of the outside plate.
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After this, i welded a plate and applied rust preventive primer:
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After this again used sealer to make sure everything is sealed.
Then i welded a small plate on the outside and coated everything with body coating:
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The right, rear wheel well was not as bad as the left one. Wheel edge was fine so only had to weld a plate at the back of the wheel well.
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Just as on the left side, rust formed behind the towing eye. Not as big as on the left side but still enough to cut open the steel and clean it properly and apply zink primer:
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Making new pannels!
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Everything welded up and ready for rust preventive primer:
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After this also sealed everything with sealer.
In the left front wheel well there was a mean spot that took some Macgyvering. It all worked and it was welded shut with fresh steel again. Primed, sealed and stone chip body spray applied.
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In the right sill there was a weak area that i cut open and welded a new section in. After this re-coated bot sills and painted them.
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The old boy looked like this during the last weekends:
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Today i removed surface rust from the wheel arches and coated them with rust preventive primer and paint
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Looks quite good don't you think?:
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All that is left are some details and ad rust preventive wax. Cherry on the cake as you would say it. ;)
1989 Rover 827 Vitesse.
1982 Rover 3500 Vanden Plas.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Lodein » Sun Nov 01, 2020 7:42 am

There was a lot of rust, but you treated it really well.

Congratulations on a very good job

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by scoobyh123 » Sun Nov 01, 2020 10:34 am

Great work there Marc! Surprisingly rust-free for an SD1 although i think the 1980/81 onwards models had better corrosion protection.

Should be solid for years to come now! :wink: :D
Cheers,
Dave

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by 820Vitesse » Sun Nov 01, 2020 1:42 pm

Excellent work Marc

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Sun Nov 01, 2020 2:50 pm

@ Lodein: thank very much! 😃

@ Dave: Cheers! Yes i agree, not bad for such an old car. Ah that could be. I think the quality of the cars was improved during production.

@ 820Vitesse: Thanks!!
1989 Rover 827 Vitesse.
1982 Rover 3500 Vanden Plas.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Sun Nov 08, 2020 7:48 am

I think the SD1 work that was started surrounding the rust is now completed. :)

Boot first sealed with sealer and then primer so that i could apply colour:
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Then i sprayed cavity clear was in the seems to prevent moisture to form.
Boot done!
I applied an extra coat of 2K clear coat allong the wheel arches:
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They are more shiny now than the rest of the body :P :
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To tackle the wheel arches i had to remove the old mud flaps. By doing so i broke of the threads. I ordered new (old stock) mudflaps. To prevent rust from forming on the brackets i coated them with 2K clear coat as well.
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Then i applied cavity wax to the underside of the car and coated the exhaust:
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Now i took a picture of the end result of the cirkels that i welded in:
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Cleaned the last part of the sill seem that was covered by the lift all the time:
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1989 Rover 827 Vitesse.
1982 Rover 3500 Vanden Plas.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Lodein » Sun Nov 08, 2020 9:35 am

Your Rover SD1 will be better than new, but I heard that is not difficult because the quality of the SD1 was bad !!!

Congratulations on this good job

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Sun Nov 08, 2020 3:24 pm

Haha i do my best to get it in good shape! Now the early MK2 SD1 was not as bad but it still had issues that is true. ;)
1989 Rover 827 Vitesse.
1982 Rover 3500 Vanden Plas.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Sun Nov 29, 2020 11:23 pm

Just as maintenance i had the sparkplugs replaced. Now strong Champions are installed that provide a good spark.
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New radiator hoses are installed because the old ones were passed it. Also new heater hoses. All original Rover. :)
Because the new set-up does not need the heat chamber on the right exhaust manifold, i removed it. Also gave the exhaust manifolf a bit of paint. As a cherry on the cake i polished the chrome on the air filter. Looks nice and tidy now. :)
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Today it was hibernation time for my Rover SD1. Nice drive, filled up the tank, put in a additive, pumped up the tires, wash, greased the rubber seals, took out the battery and of to sleep. :)
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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by scoobyh123 » Sun Nov 29, 2020 11:41 pm

AAAAAaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!


NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Not Champion spark plugs Marc! :o :shock: :o :shock: :o

First job for you when you wake it from hibernation will be to remove them, find the bin and put them in it.

Then fit a set of NGK BP5E instead. You could also use BCPR6E as well, that way you could buy in bulk and use the same plugs in your Vitesse.

It's well known that Champion misfire from new, i remember once many moons ago i was running an engine that needed hotter plugs tha normal and i hadn't got round to fitting them. They let me down about 80-100 miles from home in the middle of the night and the only plugs i could get were Champion. They got me home and to the nearest parts factors the next working day but only just, i literally had to change the plugs in their car park to be able to drive away.
Cheers,
Dave

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Marc-827-Vitesse » Mon Nov 30, 2020 11:26 am

I / we have totally different experiences. Our fleet and the fleet of my friend use these. Never troubles. Will keep you posted. ;)
1989 Rover 827 Vitesse.
1982 Rover 3500 Vanden Plas.

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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:09 pm

That was just one of my experiences Marc and i was reluctant to fit the Champions but i didn't have any choice, i'd had previous experience of them misfiring too.

Most garages in the UK won't even stock Champion plugs, never mind fit them because of the bad reputation they have. Do an internet search yourself for something like "Champion spark plug misfires" or similar.
Cheers,
Dave

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'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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Re: 1982 Rover 3500 V8 Vanden Plas automatic.

Post by Richard Moss » Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:39 pm

scoobyh123 wrote:
Sun Nov 01, 2020 10:34 am
Great work there Marc! Surprisingly rust-free for an SD1 although i think the 1980/81 onwards models had better corrosion protection.
When did production move from Solihull to Cowley?

Edit: 1981 according to Wikipedia
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT

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