A Tip From The Old Bugger
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A Tip From The Old Bugger
With the weather now being sub-zero I would advise anybody warms their engines up for at least a few minutes before driving.
I always fire the car up and let it run for about 5-10 minutes on idle before driving, as I'm doing with the old '91 827SLi at the moment before the wife drops me off at the garage to pick up the 820SLi from the MOT.
I always fire the car up and let it run for about 5-10 minutes on idle before driving, as I'm doing with the old '91 827SLi at the moment before the wife drops me off at the garage to pick up the 820SLi from the MOT.
My Vehicles; 1994 Peugeot 405 GLXd, 1999 Rover 820i, 1993 Rover 820SLi & 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria.
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
- Richard Moss
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
However, if the car is stolen whilst doing that your insurance company may refuse to pay out.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
Indeed, but I love in and lively village where the chance of that happening is slim.
My Vehicles; 1994 Peugeot 405 GLXd, 1999 Rover 820i, 1993 Rover 820SLi & 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria.
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
same here, go outside ( 05.15 ) start car leave for 10mins to de-ice, heater on hot ( engines cold so warms up slowly ) set on screen and feet, turn on rear demister, go inside for morning cuppa then set off to work in warm mist free car.
MIKE
just got a 827 mk2 coupe and loving it, more commanly known as mad mick ( used to run a nitros injected firebird ) still missing my rover, now got a BMW 735 1999. now got 2003 760l, a 6.0ltr V12 and 445bhp.
just got a 827 mk2 coupe and loving it, more commanly known as mad mick ( used to run a nitros injected firebird ) still missing my rover, now got a BMW 735 1999. now got 2003 760l, a 6.0ltr V12 and 445bhp.
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
When you have 2 keys for your car, you can lock it, and leave it running
Phil B
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
Sorry, but I have a heated and double skinned, insulated 9 car garage on remote control. Hasn't everyone?
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- thamestyres
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
i have a twenty car workshop but unfortunately or fortunately depending on your thoughts, i only work there and don't live there. generally start the car up and off we go.. regards ricky
Rover Sterling KV6 V.reg 4 tailpipes and rs5 wheels (sold)
home of the "Mad Maestro"
1935 morris 18/6, having a near end of life rejuvenation, xj6 running gear..
home of the "Mad Maestro"
1935 morris 18/6, having a near end of life rejuvenation, xj6 running gear..
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
Of course Brad, I'm in the middle of getting a new 100" Plasma television fitted in mine though, needed to take all the cars out to get it through!!Very Tall Brad wrote:Sorry, but I have a heated and double skinned, insulated 9 car garage on remote control. Hasn't everyone?
My Vehicles; 1994 Peugeot 405 GLXd, 1999 Rover 820i, 1993 Rover 820SLi & 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria.
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
That's what I did.Nuts4my827 wrote:When you have 2 keys for your car, you can lock it, and leave it running
Smug gitVery Tall Brad wrote:Sorry, but I have a heated and double skinned, insulated 9 car garage on remote control. Hasn't everyone?
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
One smashed window later..and the car is gone though? Possibly need to use a steering lock in combination?Richard Moss wrote:That's what I did.Nuts4my827 wrote:When you have 2 keys for your car, you can lock it, and leave it running
2000 Audi TT 1.8T 225 Quattro Silver.
1996 Rover Vitesse Coupe - the new towcar
1996 Rover Vitesse Coupe - the new towcar
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
If you want to make sure nothing will happen, simply stay outside whilst it warms up.
If you're a smoker, have a cigarette and by the time you're finished it'll be warmed up. If not... Water the hanging baskets?
If you're a smoker, have a cigarette and by the time you're finished it'll be warmed up. If not... Water the hanging baskets?
My Vehicles; 1994 Peugeot 405 GLXd, 1999 Rover 820i, 1993 Rover 820SLi & 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria.
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
Mrs Old Bugger's Vehicles; 1991 Rover 827SLi & 1996 Ford Mondeo Ghia-X V6
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
I don't have a choice in the matter when it comes to letting the car warm up - I work nights and my commutes are at 9pm at night and 6am in the morning (not famed for being the warmest parts of the day at ANY time of the year, let alone winter). Not only do I need to let it warm up because it 'chugs' when cold (barely driveable for the first few minutes, unless you like life at higher revs and lower gears for the journey ) but it ices up on the inside a little, too. I refuse to scrape the INSIDE as well as the outside, so I wait until it melts.
It's fun working in P.I. - the most interesting part of the day is the drive to and from work!
It's fun working in P.I. - the most interesting part of the day is the drive to and from work!
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
I thought the engine warming up thing went out of favour sometime in the 70's when the advice I was given as a learner was to drive off gently as soon as you started the engine (having scraped and deiced the windows). Theory was that this warmed the engine quicker than idling thus preventing wear and also saved fuel. Can't see how that should change with a modern car.
Should we have a poll?
As for Brad's garage, pah! I had one as a kid that had a lift to the top floor with a ramp to go down again and it could easily hold all my Dinky and Corgi toys!
Steve
Should we have a poll?
As for Brad's garage, pah! I had one as a kid that had a lift to the top floor with a ramp to go down again and it could easily hold all my Dinky and Corgi toys!
Steve
Some big lads did it.
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
I've always done the followingoldbugger wrote:With the weather now being sub-zero I would advise anybody warms their engines up for at least a few minutes before driving.
I always fire the car up and let it run for about 5-10 minutes on idle before driving, as I'm doing with the old '91 827SLi at the moment before the wife drops me off at the garage to pick up the 820SLi from the MOT.
Unlock, start up, scrape ice off ALL the windows (number of people I see that only scrape the windscreen or worse just a hole to peek through! ) get in, belt on, brain in gear, radio tuned to something that isn't Radio 1, go.
By the time I get in and pull away she switches onto LPG immediately, even in -7 degree weather we had up here last week. Usually just off the bottom of the temp gauge stop.
Never had a problem with cold starting, only thing is the PAS pump makes a brief noise in cold weather, as I'm fairly sure the steering rack is buggered (well I know it's leaking and feels a bit graunchy - got a new one ready to fit next week)
The only thing I've found in cold weather is it takes about 6 miles to warm up on the gauge to operating temperature.
The biggest problem is the old style block with HUGE waterways and almost 10l of coolant (someone correct me if I'm wrong, I think rave quotes 9.4l coolant capacity for the 820) combine that with a gigantic radiator and it's no wonder the poor thing takes forever to warm up. In the past on the old car I used a big chunk of thick cardboard as a radiator muff, left the top 4" or so exposed and covered the rest, seemed to help alot.
Also everyone with A/C turn it off/onto ECON mode otherwise it runs the cooling fans to keep the condenser cool, thus pulls air through the radiator as well making it warm up MUCH more slowly.
But at 65p/l I'm not complaining about putting on an extra layer to let her warm up and switch over onto LPG!
My mate's celica 1.8l 4 pot all alloy engine with about 5l of coolant takes about 4 miles to get fully hot on the gauge and "feels" warm after 8 (pulls better at 7k).
Dušan - head lunatic @ Four Paw Racing
'66 Ford Country Sedan
'89 Mazda MX5 1.6
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'66 Ford Country Sedan
'89 Mazda MX5 1.6
'98 Mitsubishi Evo 4 GSR
'07 Subaru Legacy Spec B
- Richard Moss
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Re: A Tip From The Old Bugger
The car does need to be warm enough to run the demister, thoughNONOTE wrote:I thought the engine warming up thing went out of favour sometime in the 70's when the advice I was given as a learner was to drive off gently as soon as you started the engine (having scraped and deiced the windows). Theory was that this warmed the engine quicker than idling thus preventing wear and also saved fuel. Can't see how that should change with a modern car.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
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