1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
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1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Hi All,
I'm relatively new to this forum, I bought my 800 off of Dusan of this parish last October (my how time flies). I was after a cheap to run, big comfy, quiet barge - and I almost got that, the 820 is a big barge, but not quiet (does sound great though for a 4cyl), not so comfy with its stiff springs and hard shocks.
Nevertheless, although I grumble about its behaviour over bumps and bad road surfaces (compounded by the racket the ARB links are making over sharp/sudden bumps), in the twisties it really makes me smile! Also i'm still unsure of the gold wheels, but they are round and so are the tyres so will stay for the time bieng.
My other car is a 1985 Citroen BX19 GT, a rare MK1 carb version of the sporty type and i'm gradually fettling it to as good a standard as possible. There are so few GT's left and it is the comfiest car I have ever owned due to the lovely hydraulic suspension. It's in great condition, however it was laid up from 1998 until I bought it in 2012 with only one or two jaunts using trade plates to shows etc, so i've gone thorugh lots of the stuff that needed doing but there is still more, some big jobs too - front and rear subframes have to come off to renew suspension components and bearings - and in a hydraulically suspended car that means removing all the lines that go above, below, around and through said subframes! I have to do this before Sept 2019 as we have a holiday in france planned for my 30th (involves renting a Chateau, big parties and much much wine!).
The above points bring me to my current thoughts - what I really want is a no fuss, reliable, cheap to run/maintain car that I can just drive with as little time/effort/expenditure (ie not an 800) allowing me to focus on getting my GT up to the desired condition. At the moment, and likley tp remain as such for at least the next 2 years, I walk to work which makes my everday car choice a lot easier, if this were to change though I think the 800 would have to go. However, it makes me smile quite a bit! So it has until the insurance/tax runs out at the end of this October to persuade me to keep it.
The car has problems, I am being very critical here - I know Dusan put a ton of woirk into this car, which was evident after reading his blog and that is a big part of the reason I bought it (besides liking it and always having fancied one). However, The Negatives:
1. Many many annoying rattles in the interior! Mostly door cards that have most of their retaining clips broken, but also window mechanisms, door locking mechanisms, a cocophany of noise coming from the radio/clock centre console area, reading light and the rear quarter windows are amongst the worst with a high pitched squeak!
2. Leaks, numerous. Come from both ends of the engine and seem to drip off of the subframe. Power steering fluid seems to be the biggest leak (needs topping up the most), i've also topped up coolant, but not oil yet even though from previous reading all the crank/cam seals have been said to leak and it's obvious the cam cover gaskets also leak.
3. It's not running quite right either. Especially when cold, on petrol the engine islumpy and not smooth - this doesn't help the rattles/squeaks - but when warm is rather nice. On LPG it's unpleasant to drive, throttle response is very jerky and is almost impossible to drive smoothly. I would almost suspect worn engine/gearbox mounts as coming on and off the throttle is very jerky, on petrol you really have to careful with the pedal to avoid a lurch, on LPG it's going to happen anyway! It also seems to take an age to get warm, and the temp gauge fluctuates a fair bit (driving down a hill with no throttle this time of year sees the temp go to C on the gauge) not such a bonus with the cold weather we've been having.
4. I am not a fan of the re-upholstered recaro seats, they're quite hard but do give good support when driving enthusiastically.
5. Whilst the bodywork seems to be rust free and quite straight, the front and rear passenger wings have very little paint left on them, they look dull and you can almost see the primer in places - and I am not a fan of the black rubbing strips and bumper tops, I do like the later body coloured rubbing strips, makes the car look much more elegant IMO.
Now although there are quite a few negatives, I do like the car and want to give it a fair chance. It is fun to drive, different from most other boring modern cars, looks good in a low-slung long kind of way, diesel 5th works well unless you're on a hill or have passengers/load, leather and wood is always good, the engine is nice when warm and has just enough get up and go to make you smile, especially when combined with the noise it makes; love it when the second cam comes in - you can hear a change in the sound - for the better!
So I plan to:
-Replace spark plugs + HT leads (i've read T series' don't like worn plugs/leads)
-Replace thermostat and CTS (CTS also something i've read T series are fussy with)
-Get the LPG system sorted, with a new 4cyl ECU via my friendly LPG specialists (had a few LPG powered cars now)
-Replace all the door card fixings and fittings, replace duct tape acting as door insulation with thick clear plastic
-Whilst in the doors, inspect and de-rattle the locking/window mechanisms
-Remove and refit rear quarter windows, hopefully removing that squeak
-Paint the door mouldings and bumoer tops body colour (will give the rest of the bumpers a coat too)
-FInd good used passenger front + rear wings
-Keep an eye out for late electric heated leather stone biege seats
-Seal the cam-covers, cam/crank end seals are above the level of effort I want to put in for now
-Try and fix the water/PAS fluid leaks
That should keep me occupied and hopefully without costing me much money (although a lot of time!), The aim is to see if the good points outweigh the irritants of this car after some refining. Got some bits coming this week, so will update again at the weekend - with pictures, I promise.
Cheers,
Tom
I'm relatively new to this forum, I bought my 800 off of Dusan of this parish last October (my how time flies). I was after a cheap to run, big comfy, quiet barge - and I almost got that, the 820 is a big barge, but not quiet (does sound great though for a 4cyl), not so comfy with its stiff springs and hard shocks.
Nevertheless, although I grumble about its behaviour over bumps and bad road surfaces (compounded by the racket the ARB links are making over sharp/sudden bumps), in the twisties it really makes me smile! Also i'm still unsure of the gold wheels, but they are round and so are the tyres so will stay for the time bieng.
My other car is a 1985 Citroen BX19 GT, a rare MK1 carb version of the sporty type and i'm gradually fettling it to as good a standard as possible. There are so few GT's left and it is the comfiest car I have ever owned due to the lovely hydraulic suspension. It's in great condition, however it was laid up from 1998 until I bought it in 2012 with only one or two jaunts using trade plates to shows etc, so i've gone thorugh lots of the stuff that needed doing but there is still more, some big jobs too - front and rear subframes have to come off to renew suspension components and bearings - and in a hydraulically suspended car that means removing all the lines that go above, below, around and through said subframes! I have to do this before Sept 2019 as we have a holiday in france planned for my 30th (involves renting a Chateau, big parties and much much wine!).
The above points bring me to my current thoughts - what I really want is a no fuss, reliable, cheap to run/maintain car that I can just drive with as little time/effort/expenditure (ie not an 800) allowing me to focus on getting my GT up to the desired condition. At the moment, and likley tp remain as such for at least the next 2 years, I walk to work which makes my everday car choice a lot easier, if this were to change though I think the 800 would have to go. However, it makes me smile quite a bit! So it has until the insurance/tax runs out at the end of this October to persuade me to keep it.
The car has problems, I am being very critical here - I know Dusan put a ton of woirk into this car, which was evident after reading his blog and that is a big part of the reason I bought it (besides liking it and always having fancied one). However, The Negatives:
1. Many many annoying rattles in the interior! Mostly door cards that have most of their retaining clips broken, but also window mechanisms, door locking mechanisms, a cocophany of noise coming from the radio/clock centre console area, reading light and the rear quarter windows are amongst the worst with a high pitched squeak!
2. Leaks, numerous. Come from both ends of the engine and seem to drip off of the subframe. Power steering fluid seems to be the biggest leak (needs topping up the most), i've also topped up coolant, but not oil yet even though from previous reading all the crank/cam seals have been said to leak and it's obvious the cam cover gaskets also leak.
3. It's not running quite right either. Especially when cold, on petrol the engine islumpy and not smooth - this doesn't help the rattles/squeaks - but when warm is rather nice. On LPG it's unpleasant to drive, throttle response is very jerky and is almost impossible to drive smoothly. I would almost suspect worn engine/gearbox mounts as coming on and off the throttle is very jerky, on petrol you really have to careful with the pedal to avoid a lurch, on LPG it's going to happen anyway! It also seems to take an age to get warm, and the temp gauge fluctuates a fair bit (driving down a hill with no throttle this time of year sees the temp go to C on the gauge) not such a bonus with the cold weather we've been having.
4. I am not a fan of the re-upholstered recaro seats, they're quite hard but do give good support when driving enthusiastically.
5. Whilst the bodywork seems to be rust free and quite straight, the front and rear passenger wings have very little paint left on them, they look dull and you can almost see the primer in places - and I am not a fan of the black rubbing strips and bumper tops, I do like the later body coloured rubbing strips, makes the car look much more elegant IMO.
Now although there are quite a few negatives, I do like the car and want to give it a fair chance. It is fun to drive, different from most other boring modern cars, looks good in a low-slung long kind of way, diesel 5th works well unless you're on a hill or have passengers/load, leather and wood is always good, the engine is nice when warm and has just enough get up and go to make you smile, especially when combined with the noise it makes; love it when the second cam comes in - you can hear a change in the sound - for the better!
So I plan to:
-Replace spark plugs + HT leads (i've read T series' don't like worn plugs/leads)
-Replace thermostat and CTS (CTS also something i've read T series are fussy with)
-Get the LPG system sorted, with a new 4cyl ECU via my friendly LPG specialists (had a few LPG powered cars now)
-Replace all the door card fixings and fittings, replace duct tape acting as door insulation with thick clear plastic
-Whilst in the doors, inspect and de-rattle the locking/window mechanisms
-Remove and refit rear quarter windows, hopefully removing that squeak
-Paint the door mouldings and bumoer tops body colour (will give the rest of the bumpers a coat too)
-FInd good used passenger front + rear wings
-Keep an eye out for late electric heated leather stone biege seats
-Seal the cam-covers, cam/crank end seals are above the level of effort I want to put in for now
-Try and fix the water/PAS fluid leaks
That should keep me occupied and hopefully without costing me much money (although a lot of time!), The aim is to see if the good points outweigh the irritants of this car after some refining. Got some bits coming this week, so will update again at the weekend - with pictures, I promise.
Cheers,
Tom
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
- Rover Guru
- Posts: 12156
- Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:27 pm
- Location: Next door to Top Gun, Suffolk
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Couple of things Tom - the symptoms you describe on the temperature gauge point to the thermostat being stuck open, that car always warmed up quickly to my knowledge and maintained a steady temperature once warm, even downhill on a cold day on a trailing throttle.
Bear in mind if it's not getting up to temperature properly neither the petrol or LPG systems will work at their best, especially as the reducer for the LPG is coolant heated to vapourise the gas!
Also, i believe Dusan told you this, the throttle pot is dodgy on it, this will give driveability problems on both LPG and petrol. If memory serves correctly, there's a dead spot on it around the idle/light throttle position so that's where it will give the most trouble, especially as you put the power on it will jerk a bit.
You'll need a replacement throttle pot and possibly someone with Testbook to set it up, i'm not familiar enough with the T series and MEMS to confirm that though.
I think that car has coil packs rather than HT leads but the spark plugs probably want changing, LPG tends to be a bit harder on them than petrol.
I have a good used passenger wing but it's gold so will need painting. Might have a good drivers wing as well but i'd need to check, again it will need painting.
Let me know if you're interested.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Bear in mind if it's not getting up to temperature properly neither the petrol or LPG systems will work at their best, especially as the reducer for the LPG is coolant heated to vapourise the gas!
Also, i believe Dusan told you this, the throttle pot is dodgy on it, this will give driveability problems on both LPG and petrol. If memory serves correctly, there's a dead spot on it around the idle/light throttle position so that's where it will give the most trouble, especially as you put the power on it will jerk a bit.
You'll need a replacement throttle pot and possibly someone with Testbook to set it up, i'm not familiar enough with the T series and MEMS to confirm that though.
I think that car has coil packs rather than HT leads but the spark plugs probably want changing, LPG tends to be a bit harder on them than petrol.
I have a good used passenger wing but it's gold so will need painting. Might have a good drivers wing as well but i'd need to check, again it will need painting.
Let me know if you're interested.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
You Sir, Dave, are a wealth of knowledge and know more about this car than i do!
Im afraid i didn't know about the throttle pot, is a throttle pot the same as the throttle body? As in the part that meters the air intake and houses the stepper motor and butterfly valve etc? And by dodgy, does that mean non-fixable, i imagine such a part would be difficult to repair if at all.
Ordered thermostat, CTS, spark plugs and ignition leads on Monday ready for weekend tinkering.
Thank you for the offer of wings, but I'd hoped to avoid having to have them painted, so i will pass, and keep an eye out for good used BRG ones.
Im afraid i didn't know about the throttle pot, is a throttle pot the same as the throttle body? As in the part that meters the air intake and houses the stepper motor and butterfly valve etc? And by dodgy, does that mean non-fixable, i imagine such a part would be difficult to repair if at all.
Ordered thermostat, CTS, spark plugs and ignition leads on Monday ready for weekend tinkering.
Thank you for the offer of wings, but I'd hoped to avoid having to have them painted, so i will pass, and keep an eye out for good used BRG ones.
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
- Rover Guru
- Posts: 12156
- Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:27 pm
- Location: Next door to Top Gun, Suffolk
- Contact:
Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
I'm afraid my knowledge isn't that good on it, Dusan knows a lot more about it than i do! Obviously!
It's just bits i've picked up on when he's mentioned things really.
The throttle pot is the electronic part of the throttle body that tells MEMS what the throttle is actually doing so in terms of your description, yes, pretty much. They're not normally repairable as components but if you can pull it apart and find out what value potentiometer is used and then find an identical unit, both in value, physical size and characteristics (some are linear, others are logarithmic) then you may well be able to replace the individual component part of the throttle pot assembly. You'll need to find a position where you can reference the position back to the butterfly after repair though like i've described for changing it below.
This is the throttle pot arrangement on the T series :
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/7e18s12bn/MEMS1.jpg)
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/deyxp3h83/MEMS2.jpg)
How to change it :
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/d27jixedv/MEMS3_Throttle_Pot.jpg)
Apparently from reading other bits in that section of the manual, you need to hook it up to one of Rovers service computer gadgets, Microbook or Cobest to ensure the throttle pot is correctly synchronised to the stepper motor.
What i would suggest as a temporary measure to get it running right on the new throttle pot is this.
Using a multimeter on voltage, find a point where you can read the throttle pot output voltage, you'll need the ignition on but the engine not running for this. One end of the pot will be +5V, the other will be 0V and the wiper will be xV at whatever position you find a steady reading by opening the throttle by hand. Wedge the throttle in this position, perhaps by putting a screwdriver, spanner or similar object between the throttle butterfly and the throttle body and double check the voltage reading. Switch off the ignition, remove the old throttle pot and fit the new one, without disturbing the tool you used to wedge the throttle butterfly in position.
Once you have the new throttle pot in place, switch the ignition on and adjust the position of it until you once again have xV showing on the multimeter. This should give you a "close enough" position to be able to start and drive the car. You may also need to do a stepper motor rest afterwards, i can't remember how to do this (last time was about 15 years ago!) but there are several others on here that can tell you how to do it.
If you can find someone with the right machine (i think Stevee G//Rover Coup has one but might be wrong) to get the throttle pot checked some time soon after then all the better. Meanwhile that should improve matters for you!
Was thinking about the HT leads and coil packs last night, i forgot on the T series the coil packs are in one block where the distributor was and you still have HT leads!
Got used to individual coil packs that sit directly on the plug!
No worries on the wings, i suspect any wing, even the right colour will need painting to match. After all even the youngest 800 is about 20 years old give or take a few months now and the paint will have aged differently one on car to another.
To be honest, once you've sorted the little niggles on that car, aside from routine maintenance (which you have to do on any car!) it should be trouble free. As for those leaks, i think i'd rebuild the engine that came with it and swap it over and fit the new LPG ECU at the same time. Do the whole lot in one go as it were.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
It's just bits i've picked up on when he's mentioned things really.
The throttle pot is the electronic part of the throttle body that tells MEMS what the throttle is actually doing so in terms of your description, yes, pretty much. They're not normally repairable as components but if you can pull it apart and find out what value potentiometer is used and then find an identical unit, both in value, physical size and characteristics (some are linear, others are logarithmic) then you may well be able to replace the individual component part of the throttle pot assembly. You'll need to find a position where you can reference the position back to the butterfly after repair though like i've described for changing it below.
This is the throttle pot arrangement on the T series :
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/7e18s12bn/MEMS1.jpg)
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/deyxp3h83/MEMS2.jpg)
How to change it :
![Image](https://s19.postimg.org/d27jixedv/MEMS3_Throttle_Pot.jpg)
Apparently from reading other bits in that section of the manual, you need to hook it up to one of Rovers service computer gadgets, Microbook or Cobest to ensure the throttle pot is correctly synchronised to the stepper motor.
What i would suggest as a temporary measure to get it running right on the new throttle pot is this.
Using a multimeter on voltage, find a point where you can read the throttle pot output voltage, you'll need the ignition on but the engine not running for this. One end of the pot will be +5V, the other will be 0V and the wiper will be xV at whatever position you find a steady reading by opening the throttle by hand. Wedge the throttle in this position, perhaps by putting a screwdriver, spanner or similar object between the throttle butterfly and the throttle body and double check the voltage reading. Switch off the ignition, remove the old throttle pot and fit the new one, without disturbing the tool you used to wedge the throttle butterfly in position.
Once you have the new throttle pot in place, switch the ignition on and adjust the position of it until you once again have xV showing on the multimeter. This should give you a "close enough" position to be able to start and drive the car. You may also need to do a stepper motor rest afterwards, i can't remember how to do this (last time was about 15 years ago!) but there are several others on here that can tell you how to do it.
If you can find someone with the right machine (i think Stevee G//Rover Coup has one but might be wrong) to get the throttle pot checked some time soon after then all the better. Meanwhile that should improve matters for you!
Was thinking about the HT leads and coil packs last night, i forgot on the T series the coil packs are in one block where the distributor was and you still have HT leads!
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
No worries on the wings, i suspect any wing, even the right colour will need painting to match. After all even the youngest 800 is about 20 years old give or take a few months now and the paint will have aged differently one on car to another.
To be honest, once you've sorted the little niggles on that car, aside from routine maintenance (which you have to do on any car!) it should be trouble free. As for those leaks, i think i'd rebuild the engine that came with it and swap it over and fit the new LPG ECU at the same time. Do the whole lot in one go as it were.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Had a tinker in the rain this morning with the 820, Changed the spark plugs first, quite a difference in the end pieces between the new and old sets - put this down to the old being iridium LPG ones and the new, standard NGK BKR6E ones.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/dW1wZOU.jpg)
Plugs from cylinders 1 and 4 were quite gunky on the body of the plug - I guess these areas are where the rocker cover gasket is leaking the most. Tips look healthy enough though, so perhaps an unnecessary change.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/rKzsHqAh.jpg)
New plugs have quite a different style tip.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Y0RblE7h.jpg)
New bosch ignition leads on, but the coil connectors are far too big and the leads also came with a distrubutor-coil lead, it appears these are leads for a pre-96 2.0 with a dizzy, not so much use in a non-dizzy coil-pack car! However the magencor KV85 red leads look fine, all the terminals are fresh with no corrosion so i'm sure they'll last.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/CNtFrJkh.jpg)
Magnecores back on...
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/qkm87eah.jpg)
New thermostat in, interestingly the old one had two holes drilled in, not sure if this is how it was supposed to be or if it was modified, new one in, spilled a lot of coolant (foolishly prked the car nose facing down hill...) some managed to get onto the alternator even with specialist morrisons added plastic protection* Cleaned both the mating surfaces (we all like a nice clean mating surface) of the 'stat housing and selected the appropriate gasket from a choice of many. Replace pipes and tentatively start the car to see if it leaks, lo and behold - dryness! I assumed the paper/card gaskets wouldn't be good enough as the housing here is quite pitted in places, but pleasantly surprised nonetheless.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/3rcwcrLh.jpg)
Verdict? Car now appears* to warm up much quicker, and is noticeably smoother to drive, idle has dropped back to 750/800 ish too where before it was often ~1200 BUT is doesn't feel as quick as before. Not sure if these changed are purely due to the engine now runninng at the correct temperature or if the new plugs really did make a difference.
Next on the list is new side repeaters, door card overhauls and fixing the tops of the fog lamps as they're loose (secure on the bottoms though) and potentially letting moisture in, it also needs a jolly good clean.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/dW1wZOU.jpg)
Plugs from cylinders 1 and 4 were quite gunky on the body of the plug - I guess these areas are where the rocker cover gasket is leaking the most. Tips look healthy enough though, so perhaps an unnecessary change.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/rKzsHqAh.jpg)
New plugs have quite a different style tip.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Y0RblE7h.jpg)
New bosch ignition leads on, but the coil connectors are far too big and the leads also came with a distrubutor-coil lead, it appears these are leads for a pre-96 2.0 with a dizzy, not so much use in a non-dizzy coil-pack car! However the magencor KV85 red leads look fine, all the terminals are fresh with no corrosion so i'm sure they'll last.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/CNtFrJkh.jpg)
Magnecores back on...
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/qkm87eah.jpg)
New thermostat in, interestingly the old one had two holes drilled in, not sure if this is how it was supposed to be or if it was modified, new one in, spilled a lot of coolant (foolishly prked the car nose facing down hill...) some managed to get onto the alternator even with specialist morrisons added plastic protection* Cleaned both the mating surfaces (we all like a nice clean mating surface) of the 'stat housing and selected the appropriate gasket from a choice of many. Replace pipes and tentatively start the car to see if it leaks, lo and behold - dryness! I assumed the paper/card gaskets wouldn't be good enough as the housing here is quite pitted in places, but pleasantly surprised nonetheless.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/3rcwcrLh.jpg)
Verdict? Car now appears* to warm up much quicker, and is noticeably smoother to drive, idle has dropped back to 750/800 ish too where before it was often ~1200 BUT is doesn't feel as quick as before. Not sure if these changed are purely due to the engine now runninng at the correct temperature or if the new plugs really did make a difference.
Next on the list is new side repeaters, door card overhauls and fixing the tops of the fog lamps as they're loose (secure on the bottoms though) and potentially letting moisture in, it also needs a jolly good clean.
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
- Rover Guru
- Posts: 12156
- Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:27 pm
- Location: Next door to Top Gun, Suffolk
- Contact:
Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
You've done a few jobs there Tom - all god work but difficult to pinpoint the exact cause of the improvement.
However, looking at the gap on those old plugs, i'd say they were 95% of your problem! Also the "blow-by" on the plugs (brown marks) can cause tracking and misfires, especially on gas.
What gap did you set the new ones to?
I'd suggest going 0.1 - 0.2mm tighter than the recommended setting simply because you are running on LPG and it sometimes isn't as easy to fire as petrol, hence having a reputation for being "hard" on plugs. The specified gap is 0.85mm, i'd suggest dropping to 0.7mm because of the LPG and if you're interested, measure the gap on the old Iridium plugs - judging from the photo it looks way over 1.0mm, more like 1.2-1.5mm!
Now it's running at normal temperature and you have plugs which will fire each time, you should find (as you have) that it's a lot smoother and livelier - you say it doesn't feel quite so lively though. My guess is that you had to put your foot down more to get it going in the first place because of those plugs (and maybe the lower temperature as well) so when it did pick up and go, it felt quicker. Also the smoothness can be deceptive - many times i've found i'm traveling faster than i thought in a smoother car!
The old 'stat has those holes to aid bleeding, i see the new one doesn't, however as the 'stat is mounted horizontally it won't make much difference but check the coolant again once it's cold and be prepared to top it up. Make sure you use the same sort of coolant - don't mix OAT (red usually) and ethylene glycol (normally blue, sometimes green) or you'll end up with expensive jelly clogging the cooling system!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
However, looking at the gap on those old plugs, i'd say they were 95% of your problem! Also the "blow-by" on the plugs (brown marks) can cause tracking and misfires, especially on gas.
What gap did you set the new ones to?
I'd suggest going 0.1 - 0.2mm tighter than the recommended setting simply because you are running on LPG and it sometimes isn't as easy to fire as petrol, hence having a reputation for being "hard" on plugs. The specified gap is 0.85mm, i'd suggest dropping to 0.7mm because of the LPG and if you're interested, measure the gap on the old Iridium plugs - judging from the photo it looks way over 1.0mm, more like 1.2-1.5mm!
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
Now it's running at normal temperature and you have plugs which will fire each time, you should find (as you have) that it's a lot smoother and livelier - you say it doesn't feel quite so lively though. My guess is that you had to put your foot down more to get it going in the first place because of those plugs (and maybe the lower temperature as well) so when it did pick up and go, it felt quicker. Also the smoothness can be deceptive - many times i've found i'm traveling faster than i thought in a smoother car!
The old 'stat has those holes to aid bleeding, i see the new one doesn't, however as the 'stat is mounted horizontally it won't make much difference but check the coolant again once it's cold and be prepared to top it up. Make sure you use the same sort of coolant - don't mix OAT (red usually) and ethylene glycol (normally blue, sometimes green) or you'll end up with expensive jelly clogging the cooling system!
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
I never knew that plugs needed to be gapped? In all my previous cars I have just put the new plugs in, done. Don't think i've ever had any problems, or at least not noticed any!
Driving about today the car warms up very quickly which is nice! Heater much improved too. I looked for bleed valves but couldn't find any obvious ones, ran the car for 20 mins and the fans didn't come on - but the temp guage never went above halfway either. The coolant level, once initially topped up hasn't changed so far today, but will check next time I use it - I topped up with water as didn't have any coolant to hand, but only needed to put in 500mls so that shouldn't affect the freezing point too much I hope, it still appears very pink.
Before the plug change you could really tell when the second cam came in as the power delivery and sound changed, now there's a smoother power delivery - perhaps more lower end so the increase at higher revs is less noticeable? Still ok for a 2.0 in a big car though I think.
Driving about today the car warms up very quickly which is nice! Heater much improved too. I looked for bleed valves but couldn't find any obvious ones, ran the car for 20 mins and the fans didn't come on - but the temp guage never went above halfway either. The coolant level, once initially topped up hasn't changed so far today, but will check next time I use it - I topped up with water as didn't have any coolant to hand, but only needed to put in 500mls so that shouldn't affect the freezing point too much I hope, it still appears very pink.
Before the plug change you could really tell when the second cam came in as the power delivery and sound changed, now there's a smoother power delivery - perhaps more lower end so the increase at higher revs is less noticeable? Still ok for a 2.0 in a big car though I think.
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
You don't have a set of feeler gauges then? You'll need to get some at some point. You're kind of lucky as the NKR6E come pre-gapped to 0.9mm so you'll be ok for a while but for the sake of a couple of quid for some feeler gauges you could have set them better.
To give you an idea, 0.9mm is the same as putting a set of plugs with 5000 miles service into the engine. Generally plugs should be changed every 12000 or at the very least, removed, cleaned, regapped and refitted but only until 24000 miles by then they should be renewed.
Plug gaps (in a healthy engine) will increase by about 0.1mm per 10000 miles driven so 0.9mm is 0.05mm over standard, equivalent to 5000 miles use. Granted they're new so you won't have the other effects but simply on the gap you're losing out.
I'd suggest you check with Dusan as to what antifreeze he put in, it sounds like OAT and i seem to recall him saying he had done a very thorough flush of the system before changing to that type - i could be wrong though and for the sake of an email, phone call or whatever it could save you a lot of money and/or a blown engine. Colour is no indication of it's effectiveness at protecting against corrosion and/or frost.
There aren't any bleed valves to my knowledge on that car, rumour has it some cars had them from the factory, i don't remember ever finding one though!
The second cam is always running - both cams always run when the engine is running. What you're describing is hitting the power band, much more obvious on a 16v than an 8v engine because of improved efficiency. Below that speed a 16v isn't as efficient or torquey as an 8v engine so the difference is noticeable, not a "slam you into the seat" difference but there is a difference.
Running properly it should be a gradual increase with a bit of a shove back when you hit the power band.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
To give you an idea, 0.9mm is the same as putting a set of plugs with 5000 miles service into the engine. Generally plugs should be changed every 12000 or at the very least, removed, cleaned, regapped and refitted but only until 24000 miles by then they should be renewed.
Plug gaps (in a healthy engine) will increase by about 0.1mm per 10000 miles driven so 0.9mm is 0.05mm over standard, equivalent to 5000 miles use. Granted they're new so you won't have the other effects but simply on the gap you're losing out.
I'd suggest you check with Dusan as to what antifreeze he put in, it sounds like OAT and i seem to recall him saying he had done a very thorough flush of the system before changing to that type - i could be wrong though and for the sake of an email, phone call or whatever it could save you a lot of money and/or a blown engine. Colour is no indication of it's effectiveness at protecting against corrosion and/or frost.
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
There aren't any bleed valves to my knowledge on that car, rumour has it some cars had them from the factory, i don't remember ever finding one though!
The second cam is always running - both cams always run when the engine is running. What you're describing is hitting the power band, much more obvious on a 16v than an 8v engine because of improved efficiency. Below that speed a 16v isn't as efficient or torquey as an 8v engine so the difference is noticeable, not a "slam you into the seat" difference but there is a difference.
Running properly it should be a gradual increase with a bit of a shove back when you hit the power band.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
As ever Dave, you are a wealth of knowledge. I assumed that spark plugs bought for a specific car would be correctly gapped - how naive of me! But then all my car tinkerings have always been learning on the go, my dad is very handy with cars but we never did the father-son-car thing.
My reasoning with the colour was based on dilution, it was a strong pink to start with and after 500mls of water added, still a strong pink - so hopefully will still have a nice low, freezing point. No bleed valves are daft IMO, such a simple fix to a common problem, how difficult could it be to engineer in?
Of course both cams run all the time, it'd be a clever cambelt arrangement otherwise! My reference to the second cam 'come in' was synonymous to your description of the power band. It's not something I know much about but I understand it is to do with different valve opening durations created by the differing cam lobe profiles in the two cams, one for more low down torque and another for more top end power. I used to have a 3.2 XJ6 and that was really quite 'cammy', had much more top end grunt than you'd expect - interestingly the 4.0 XJ6 is reputed to be more of a torque machine and less revvy.
My reasoning with the colour was based on dilution, it was a strong pink to start with and after 500mls of water added, still a strong pink - so hopefully will still have a nice low, freezing point. No bleed valves are daft IMO, such a simple fix to a common problem, how difficult could it be to engineer in?
Of course both cams run all the time, it'd be a clever cambelt arrangement otherwise! My reference to the second cam 'come in' was synonymous to your description of the power band. It's not something I know much about but I understand it is to do with different valve opening durations created by the differing cam lobe profiles in the two cams, one for more low down torque and another for more top end power. I used to have a 3.2 XJ6 and that was really quite 'cammy', had much more top end grunt than you'd expect - interestingly the 4.0 XJ6 is reputed to be more of a torque machine and less revvy.
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Thing is Tom, the same spark plugs are used in many different vehicles - the BKR6E is also used in the Jeep Cherokee 4.0 HO but with a smaller gap, about 0.7mm from memory without checking. That's just one example, there are loads of others.
I don't know if you drink but imagine a shot of Jack Daniels in a glass, it's sort of golden browny yellow. Add a splash of coke (JD & Coke) and it goes dark brown, same as Coke. Add a lot of Coke and it's still dark brown but is now a Coke with a splash of JD. The same principle applies to antifreeze and water. You can buy hydrometers on ebay for about £3-4 to test the antifreeze to see how concentrated it is.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTI-FREEZE- ... SwCGVX2Z1f
No good using one for a battery as it won't read right.
No real need for bleed valves on the T series or any other properly engineered cooling system. Seems to be mainly French cars that have them as an afterthought because they haven't engineered the cooling systems all that well.
You've got it about the power band. I can confirm the 4.0 XJ40 is definitely a torquey motor, moreso than the 3.6 (never driven a 3.2 so can't be sure) but not as revvy, nice engines though the AJ6, not so familiar with the AJ16 (3.2 and later 4.0) but they have a good basic design so should still be good lumps.
You've heard of the Honda VTEC engine? Again a DOHC engine but only 8 valves work up to a certain point, then a clever arrangement with a solenoid valve and some pins that slide in and out of the rocker arms bring the other 8 valves in making it a 16 valve. The second lot of valves have cam lobes that are longer opening times so you go from mild mannered grannys shopping car to full race screamer when it kicks in.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I don't know if you drink but imagine a shot of Jack Daniels in a glass, it's sort of golden browny yellow. Add a splash of coke (JD & Coke) and it goes dark brown, same as Coke. Add a lot of Coke and it's still dark brown but is now a Coke with a splash of JD. The same principle applies to antifreeze and water. You can buy hydrometers on ebay for about £3-4 to test the antifreeze to see how concentrated it is.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTI-FREEZE- ... SwCGVX2Z1f
No good using one for a battery as it won't read right.
No real need for bleed valves on the T series or any other properly engineered cooling system. Seems to be mainly French cars that have them as an afterthought because they haven't engineered the cooling systems all that well.
You've got it about the power band. I can confirm the 4.0 XJ40 is definitely a torquey motor, moreso than the 3.6 (never driven a 3.2 so can't be sure) but not as revvy, nice engines though the AJ6, not so familiar with the AJ16 (3.2 and later 4.0) but they have a good basic design so should still be good lumps.
You've heard of the Honda VTEC engine? Again a DOHC engine but only 8 valves work up to a certain point, then a clever arrangement with a solenoid valve and some pins that slide in and out of the rocker arms bring the other 8 valves in making it a 16 valve. The second lot of valves have cam lobes that are longer opening times so you go from mild mannered grannys shopping car to full race screamer when it kicks in.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
New idicator lenses arrived this morning, old ones were algae-fied and one had a broken retaining clip and occasionally fell out of the wing - which really won't do!
The offending.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/kBIdkYS.jpg)
Nice new lenses.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/vCAe6DC.jpg)
New lenses, filthy car.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/M1h7AV3.jpg)
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/lhjokMx.jpg)
You can see the areas where Dusan treated the rust that crept in around these lenses, the paint has faded unfortunately but both wings aren't great anyway, the drivers has a dent on the top, and the passengers is dull and has very thin paint.
It's unlikely that this car will see paint in my ownership, due to cost, nowhere to do it and the fact that i've only ever painted black plastic bumpers before (and with limited success!). I'll either live with it or find good replacement panels - which'll be substantially cheaper than a respray.
Februaries jobs include TPS replacement and door card overhauls, have to wait until payday - January is a very long month for me as I get paid early in December (22nd) due to payroll being off over christmas. Roll on next Wednesday!
The offending.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/kBIdkYS.jpg)
Nice new lenses.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/vCAe6DC.jpg)
New lenses, filthy car.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/M1h7AV3.jpg)
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/lhjokMx.jpg)
You can see the areas where Dusan treated the rust that crept in around these lenses, the paint has faded unfortunately but both wings aren't great anyway, the drivers has a dent on the top, and the passengers is dull and has very thin paint.
It's unlikely that this car will see paint in my ownership, due to cost, nowhere to do it and the fact that i've only ever painted black plastic bumpers before (and with limited success!). I'll either live with it or find good replacement panels - which'll be substantially cheaper than a respray.
Februaries jobs include TPS replacement and door card overhauls, have to wait until payday - January is a very long month for me as I get paid early in December (22nd) due to payroll being off over christmas. Roll on next Wednesday!
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- Alucard7002
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Spark plugs - I'm a complete numpty....
The more I think about it those iridium plugs are 6 years and 40-50k miles old.... Of course they could do with changing even if they are supposedly 100k plugs!
Magnecor leads should be fine. .
Watch out with the antifreeze and make sure you use OAT orange/pink if you top up. Ignore the online book of words to put blue glycol it it!
As for the cams coming on song around 3600-4000 rpm what you're hearing is the exhaust resonating at those rpms. The actual cam profile doesn't really come in until 4500+ and is done at 6k even though she'll rev to 6800 (though does sound a bit "bag of spanners" at those speeds!)
The phrase "coming on the cam" or "coming on song" does indeed refer to how the car behaves with its power delivery. Glad the new plugs and thermostat smoothed it all out - probably an increase in bottom end torque that has made it smooth. Also probably made it easier to drive with the diesel 5th!
Glad you're having fun with the old girl and yes she is cosmetically challenged but in my ownership she was my daily driver!
The more I think about it those iridium plugs are 6 years and 40-50k miles old.... Of course they could do with changing even if they are supposedly 100k plugs!
Magnecor leads should be fine. .
Watch out with the antifreeze and make sure you use OAT orange/pink if you top up. Ignore the online book of words to put blue glycol it it!
As for the cams coming on song around 3600-4000 rpm what you're hearing is the exhaust resonating at those rpms. The actual cam profile doesn't really come in until 4500+ and is done at 6k even though she'll rev to 6800 (though does sound a bit "bag of spanners" at those speeds!)
The phrase "coming on the cam" or "coming on song" does indeed refer to how the car behaves with its power delivery. Glad the new plugs and thermostat smoothed it all out - probably an increase in bottom end torque that has made it smooth. Also probably made it easier to drive with the diesel 5th!
Glad you're having fun with the old girl and yes she is cosmetically challenged but in my ownership she was my daily driver!
Dušan - head lunatic @ Four Paw Racing
'66 Ford Country Sedan
'89 Mazda MX5 1.6
'98 Mitsubishi Evo 4 GSR
'07 Subaru Legacy Spec B
'66 Ford Country Sedan
'89 Mazda MX5 1.6
'98 Mitsubishi Evo 4 GSR
'07 Subaru Legacy Spec B
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
She is supposed to be my daily driver too, but has quite light duty at the moment! She's used in the evenings and weekends only really. Do you know how old the battery is Dusan? It doesn't look too old but also doesn't have any decipherable date.
Got in the 820 on Saturday to go out, popped the key in and noticed the dash lights were a bit dim, tried to start it and got the machine gun sound, which also sounds when using the fob to lock/unlcok the car, I wiggled the battery terminal clamps which seemed very tight, and wiggled the chunky earth that attaches to the gearbox - no change
So today I took the battery out and hooked it up to my charger, it's accepting a decent charge so I just hope it's an older battery or has been discharged gradually by only using the car on short town trips for the last couple of weeks. I really do not hope that an electrical problem is discharging it...
Had a quick look at new batteries, for a slughtly decent one it seems to be around £50/60. Is an 027 code battery correct for a late 2.0? (just in case)
Got in the 820 on Saturday to go out, popped the key in and noticed the dash lights were a bit dim, tried to start it and got the machine gun sound, which also sounds when using the fob to lock/unlcok the car, I wiggled the battery terminal clamps which seemed very tight, and wiggled the chunky earth that attaches to the gearbox - no change
So today I took the battery out and hooked it up to my charger, it's accepting a decent charge so I just hope it's an older battery or has been discharged gradually by only using the car on short town trips for the last couple of weeks. I really do not hope that an electrical problem is discharging it...
Had a quick look at new batteries, for a slughtly decent one it seems to be around £50/60. Is an 027 code battery correct for a late 2.0? (just in case)
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
- scoobyh123
- Rover Guru
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
There were 2 different batteries fitted to the 800 series from start to finish, the 027 and the 096, the 027 was fitted to petrols and the 096 to diesels.
However, there's nothing to stop you fitting an 096 (which i think Dusan has done anyway) which should give you a bit more reserve for those short journeys - perhaps they're too short!
If you decide to go for a new one, have a look at this :
https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/produ ... r-battery/
https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/produ ... -duty-027/
For the extra tenner, i'd go for the 096 every time. In fact i have done but mine are all V6s and i do a lot of short journeys.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
*** EDIT *** While i remember, the price has dropped on that front wing :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391977985359?ul_noapp=true
However, there's nothing to stop you fitting an 096 (which i think Dusan has done anyway) which should give you a bit more reserve for those short journeys - perhaps they're too short!
If you decide to go for a new one, have a look at this :
https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/produ ... r-battery/
https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/produ ... -duty-027/
For the extra tenner, i'd go for the 096 every time. In fact i have done but mine are all V6s and i do a lot of short journeys.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
*** EDIT *** While i remember, the price has dropped on that front wing :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391977985359?ul_noapp=true
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Re: 1999 BRG 820 Si Fastback
Cheers Dave, now I have looked the battery here has a higher ampage than the 027's I looked at yesterday, it says 100 on there amongst other numbers (73Ah, 680A). It seems to have charged well overnight, the needle pointed at 5 amps going in yesterday afternoon, now it's down to 1.5 this morning.
Anything I need to know about re-installing the battery? Apart from clean and tight connections, i'll undo, clean and replace the engine earth too, just incase it's a less than perfect connection. I was careful to not have the keys in the ignition when removing the battery!
I saw the wing was reduced, i've emailed them to see if they'll consider posting![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Anything I need to know about re-installing the battery? Apart from clean and tight connections, i'll undo, clean and replace the engine earth too, just incase it's a less than perfect connection. I was careful to not have the keys in the ignition when removing the battery!
I saw the wing was reduced, i've emailed them to see if they'll consider posting
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I'm by no means a Saint, nor a James - but a Tom. My cars are:
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
1985 Citroen BX19 GT Bleu Romantique
1999 Rover 820 Si Fastback British Racing Green
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