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Electrolytic Cleaning

 
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Alucard7002
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1997 Rover 820 Sterling

PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:02 am    Post subject: Electrolytic Cleaning Reply with quote

From the Old Man:

Clicky Clicky

Better to see the whole thread with others' success stories.

The 800 calipers shown are the ones we subsequently rebuilt - after a a short dip in Bilt Hamber De-Ox
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Tritium
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!
But I have one question: What is the electrolyte, I never heard of "Bilt Hamber De-Ox", do you know chemicaly what it is?
Are the parts to derust the anode or cathode and of what material is the other one made of?
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CHR15E
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=1062

First thing I came to on google.

Looks worth a go at that.
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metelmickey
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they also showed a " how to build " a rust remover in practical classics, its a plastic tub with metal plates around the outer and filled with washing soda, the part to be cleaned is hung from a wire and emesered in the water/soda, the part is connected to a battery charger on the possitive and the plates in the tub to the negative ( making shore they do not touch ) and leave to work, the ruster the longer it takes.
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CHR15E
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish I'd tried this before wire wheeling half the stuff on the Sterling.

Certainlt something I'm going to look into.
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Richard Moss
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's another link to the process involved: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
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MikeMedford
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

metelmickey wrote:
they also showed a " how to build " a rust remover in practical classics, its a plastic tub with metal plates around the outer and filled with washing soda, the part to be cleaned is hung from a wire and emesered in the water/soda, the part is connected to a battery charger on the possitive and the plates in the tub to the negative ( making shore they do not touch ) and leave to work, the ruster the longer it takes.


Other way round Laughing
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MikeMedford
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did this years ago on smaller pieces for bikes etc

Does work really well, main 2 things to be wary of is hydrogen build up and ignition sources.

Wouldn't mind having a bash again it's just a question of where I can get steel plate from cheap enough.

By the way, do not use stainless steel, yes it will not perish but it can release toxic chemicals into the mix which can be harmful to breath in and they are illegal to dispose of down the drain!
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Tritium
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15E wrote:
http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=1062

First thing I came to on google.


Yes, but over here in germany you can't buy anything like this, it has a different (brand) name, so I was looking for the what it really is...
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BennyVitesse
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In this months MG Enthusiast Magazine theres an article in which a chap rebuilt a Rover Metro to what he feels would have been the MK3 MG Metro turbo spec and he did this to his shell.
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MikeMedford
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tritium wrote:
CHR15E wrote:
http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=1062

First thing I came to on google.


Yes, but over here in germany you can't buy anything like this, it has a different (brand) name, so I was looking for the what it really is...


Washing soda is most commonly used, you can use baking soda instead if you first bake it at over 130c for awhile as this removes two of the other chemicals which basically leaves washing soda.

It's mentioned in a few of the links in the post above Smile
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